The Old Forge, Knoydart

With no roads in or out, The Old Forge in the tiny village of Inverie on the Knoydart peninsula is the most remote pub on mainland Britain (as certified by the Guinness book of records). Known as the last wilderness area in Great Britain, getting here involves an 18 mile hike over the peninsula's munros or a 7 mile scenic sea crossing. We opted to take one of the passenger ferries from the port of Malliag.

After a rather damp and misty crossing we landed at the pier in picturesque Inverie. Situated right on the seashore, The Old Forge looks out over stunning Loch Nevis to the Outer Isles.

Inside the pub is cosy and comfortable; a welcome respite from the miserable weather. There is often live music here and, I imagine, a great atmoshphere, but on a wet Saturday afternoon there were just a smattering of brave folk who had made the trip.

Looking out through the big windows there is little doubt where the seafood comes from; it is all caught locally within a 15 mile radius - Loch Nevis, Loch Nan Uamh, Sound of Sleat, Isle of Skye and Rum waters. Scallops are hand dived, usually from Loch Nevis or Arisiag. Langoustines are creel caught of the local fishing boats. The mackerel is line caught and the mussels are rope line farmed locally. Deeper water fish come from Andy Race fish merchants in Mallaig.
There are also a selection of real ales on offer, from Glenfinnan Brewery and Isle of Skye Breweries, as well as national breweries when the limited micro brewery supplies are not available or the Skye ferry is not operating on schedule.

I had to have The Old Forge prawn platter; fresh Loch Nevis langoustines, mixed salad, homemade marie rose sauce and brown bread. Served simply, whole and shell on with a lobster cracker and fork, the lanugoustine were a feast of huge succulent, sweetness. Cooked simply and as fresh as this they were amazing.


Dave needed warming up after the chilly ferry crossing and went for the mussels in cream and white wine. The mussels were fresh, plump and juicy and the lovely thick chunks of bread perfect for mopping up the plentiful sauce.

For dessert we both opted for the sticky toffee pudding, which was comforting and delicious.

We tried to take a walk along the shore after lunch, but the rain came lashing down and we had to take shelter before we caught the return ferry back to Mallaig.

Although the Scottish weather left much to be desired, The Old Forge did not. It's spectacular out of the way location and fresh, simply cooked seafood make it well worth an excursion.

The Old Forge
Inverie, Knoydart, Mallaig, PH41 4PL

The Cross Keys, Holbeck Urban Village

You will find The Cross Keys tucked away on the edge of Leeds city centre, in what is now known as "Holbeck Urban Village" - yet it is definitely no ordinary urban pub.

Holbeck Urban Village (HUV) sounds slightly pretentious and, for those who know the area, somewhat euphemistic; once the industrial heartland of Leeds, more latterly Holbeck had become a semi-derelict red-light district. However a program of regeneration has seen the beginnings of a transformation into a cool new mixed use business and residential community.

Built in 1802, The Cross Keys was a hostelry for local foundry workers and boasts a colourful history. Then in the 1980s the pub was closed and left to decay, until it was rescued by the folks behind the legendary North Bar. Following an extensive renovation, life has now been brought back to this historical landmark from the height of Leeds’ industrial past.

Step in off the street and you are transported into 21st century pub heaven. It has all the qualities of a traditional British pub, but with a modern twist. There are some great original features; wooden floors, beams, brick walls and a wood-burning stove and the decor is all vintage mirrors, old pictures and patterned china plates. The result is a rather cool urban hang out, rather than some olde worlde pub, but it strikes a great balance and still manages to be cosy and full of character. There is also a rather amazing outdoor courtyard for alfresco drinking and summer BBQs.

On the bar you'll find some excellent local ales, usully including an offering from Roosters of Knaresborough, accompanied by three changing guest beers and a great wine list. There is also an extensive inventory of draught and bottled beer and cider.

We ordered a couple of pints of Roosters and grabbed a table in the bar. It was Thursday evening and the place was busy with a lively mix of people eating and after work drinkers.

They serve an interesting menu of traditional British food made from locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. It is a limited menu (in size, not appeal) but is usually complemented by a couple of specials. They explain that by "British" food they mean dishes that capture the heritage and heart of the nation's food culture, recreating and reinventing long lost recipes and traditional classics indigenous to our islands - not some generic homogeneous gastro pub menu offering Thai spiced fishcakes or tomato mozzarella tart. On our last visit I enjoyed a really smashing rabbit pie, so was keen to find out what was on offer on the autumn menu.

For his starter Dave chose the Cullen skink with thyme croutons. It was served with the rich velvety soup in a jug to pour over the moist smoked fish, potatoes and croutons.

I had the Gloucester Old Spot pork terrine, pickled onions and toast; a generous slab of porky terrine slathered onto thick hot toast with a welcome hint of piquancy from the onions.

For mains I procrastinated over the intriguingly sounding cauliflower cheese with deep fried duck egg, autumn greens and tarragon dressing. However in the end neither of us could resist the Swaledale lamb - rump and breast of lamb with pearl barley, fennel and rosemary juices (definitely not jus!). We also went for a side order of buttered kale, despite advice from our helpful waiter that the portion would probably be sufficiently hearty without any extras. The lamb was tasty and well cooked; the rump slightly pink, the breast rolled and slow roasted until meltingly tender. I don't recall ever having seen lamb breast on a pub menu before and although it is undoubtedly fatty, it is a very tasty cut. The pale green fennel puree was perfectly smooth and added a welcome freshness to the rich, earthy dish. It also benefited from the addition of the kale which gave added colour to what was essentially a delicious but quite brown plate of food.


For desert we shared a chocolate tart with salted lavender caramel, which was a revelation. The pastry was thin and crisp and the subtle salty notes from the otherwise sweet caramel sauce provide a perfect balance to the bitter chocolate.

I cannot testify (yet), but hear they also do an excellent Sunday Roast.

What's more there is a real attempt by the owners play an active role in the revitalisation of this emerging part of the city and to connect with the local community. They hold seasonal markets in the courtyard, a weekly quiz and offer take away fish & chips as well as a parcel minding service for locals.

The short walk into Holbeck is more than worth your while for a traditional but chic pub with an impressive ethos and a fantastic menu of hearty food and proper beer.


The Cross Keys
107 Water Lane, Leeds LS11 5WD

The Punch Bowl Inn, Swaledale

We'd spent an enjoyable afternoon exploring the secrets of Upper Swaledale, opting to walk a circular route from Keld over Kisdon fell to the idyllic village of Muker and back along the banks of the fast flowing River Swale. This is a classic ramble, affording magnificent views of Swaledale and with added interest in the form of the intriguingly named "Corpse Way", the famous hay meadows, gushing waterfalls and plentiful evidence of the area's industrial lead mining past.


Tired from the fresh air and our exertions we were looking forward to a hot bath, dinner and a comfy bed. We headed along the main road that gently meanders its way through the narrow valley bottom, to the Punchbowl Inn in the tiny straggling hamlet of Low Row. The unassuming, rather plain flat fronted exterior of this 17th century inn belies the delights within

Now owned by the same family as the excellent Charles Bathurst Inn ("The CB") in neighbouring Arkengarthdale, inside The Punch Bowl has been carefully renovated. The contemporary yet traditional style still manages to retain something of the essential character of the original 17th century inn; the bare wooden floors and stone fireplaces have been preserved and old black and white photos of bygone characters and times dot the walls.

We checked in and were shown to our small but tastefully decorated room, looking out across Swaledale. For a while we took in the stunning views; the fell side on the opposite side of the valley swooping down from the dark moorland skyline through the maze of stone walls and green fields to meet the river below.

It wasn't long before our thoughts turned to refreshment and we headed downstairs. The bar area hosts a wood burning stove and a unique oak bar, hand made by local craftsman Robert ‘The Mouseman’ Thompson. The bar stools all have his trademark mouse individually carved on the seat. There is a good range of locally brewed real ale on offer and we enjoyed a perfect pint of Black Sheep Special before dinner.

The only copy of the menu is daubed in white on two wooden framed mirrors at the far end of the bar. It was difficult to read due to the light and also slightly disconcerting to see ones own ruddy cheeks reflecting back through the jumble of words. However the PB's commitment to using only the best local and seasonal produce is more than evident, the menu relying heavily on meat and game from the surrounding moors and local cheeses.

For starters I chose sesame fried mackerel with tomato and caper salsa, the mackerel was really fresh and the dish worked well. Dave had potato skins with Wensleydale cheese and bacon.

My beef, bacon & red wine casserole with a puff pastry lid really hit the mark; it was packed with flavour and big chunks of tender meat.

Dave's choice of pan fried duck breast served with a ballotine of leg and fondant potato, was slightly more refined. The breast was perfectly pink and juicy with a puddle of tasty gravy.

Our mains were accompanied by a generous portion of well cooked veggies; cheese topped mash potato, carrots, green beans and roast turnip.

The dishes were solid, well executed and portions were definitely hearty; it was just the sort of food we had craved after a day in the outdoors.

After dinner we returned to the bar, where Dave had a pint of Riggwelter. The atmosphere was buzzy and the bar staff were more than happy to strike up conversation. However perched at the bar, surrounded by tables of people eating, you can't help feeling that this isn't really a place where locals drop by for a drink. The emphasis is clearly on food and the vibe is definitely more boutique than muddy boots. If I am being overly critical it is somewhat too stylised, the homogeneous muted shade on all the walls giving the impression of being inside a slightly sterile giant mushroom. It somehow lacks the classic feel of an old-fashioned country pub. Nonetheless what the bar lacks in traditional atmosphere, the view & food more than make up for.

After a comfortable night's sleep we were ready for breakfast. For me it just had to be kippers, they are not seen often enough on breakfast menus; the whole fish was lightly smoked and moist. Safe in the knowledge that he was supporting the local farmers and butchers, Dave tucked into his quality full English. It was all accompanied by juice, a rack of hot toast, jam, marmalade and a big cafetiere of fresh coffee. Perfect.

Swaledale is one of the wilder, more remote northern dales and definitely enjoys a quieter tone. It is a valley suited to seekers of secrets, rather than those who want their recreation conveniently presented on a plate. It remains pleasingly undeveloped; brown-signposted attractions are few and far between, but if you are willing to scratch deeper than the surface and look beyond the obvious you will find a truly enchanting place. The Punch Bowl is perfectly placed for those wanting to explore these delights; good food and accommodation, warm hospitality and an authentic Yorkshire Dales experience await.


Punch Bowl Inn
Low Row, Richmond, North Yorkshire DL11 6PF

Chesters By The River, Skelwith Bridge

Chesters sits in a picturesque location by the river Brathay in Skelwith Bridge, at the mouth of the stunning Langdale valley. Operated by the same family as The Drunken Duck Inn, Chesters is named after the roguish white English Bull Terrier who ruled the roost at the pub in the eighties.

Serving breakfast, lunch, drinks and legendary home made cakes throughout the day it makes a naughty but extremely nice stop-off at any time.

They make and bake everything on the premises, including all the jams, chutneys, breads, cakes and pastries, using traditional recipes and natural, good quality, seasonal ingredients. In the summer you can relax on the decked terrace looking out over the water, or in the colder months sit inside by the roaring fire.

We dropped by for an indulgent breakfast before a walk in the Langdale valley and, as it was sunny morning, we sat outside. We were the first to arrive, but by the time we were ready to leave there wasn't a free table. This charming cafe is clearly a honeypot for those who know a good cake when they see one, and I can definitely see why.

Dave's American pancakes with maple syrup looked amazing; 3 very thick and fluffy pancakes adorned with blackcurrant compote, cream and a shot of syrup. They made for the perfect sweet holiday breakfast treat.

I had the potato scone with bacon and poached egg, the portion was slightly more modest but lovely all the same and clearly made with good quality produce.

I am by no means a connoisseur, but the coffee was really good too. We each had a latte which was nicely milky and not too strong, with the bonus of being served in huge cups.

There is marvellous array of very tempting cakes on display behind the counter. You will find classic favorites such as flapjack, brownies, lemon meringue pie, carrot cake and chocolate cake alongside the likes of tiffin, raspberry oat and nut slice, banana and walnut loaf with toffee sauce, apricot and almond puff pastry pie and lemon and blueberry baby bundt. Or there is the option of a freshly baked scone with homemade raspberry jam & whipped cream, it's apparently the same scone recipe they used for the first batch almost 26 years ago.

After breakfast we couldn't do the slabs of cakes justice, but we'll definitely be back to sample the baking soon.

Chesters By The River
Skelwith Bridge, Nr Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9NJ

The Drunken Duck Inn, Ambleside

The Drunken Duck lies in the heart of the Lake District and its isolated location on a crossroads high above Lake Windermere provides a stunning setting for this outstanding Lakeland Inn. It is surrounded by high fells and some of England's finest countryside but, breathtaking views aside, the Duck is also renowned for its excellent food and own brewed beer.

After checking in and being shown to our comfortable room (noting the jar of homemade flapjacks on the side), we went down to the lovely garden by the small tarn and tucked into a complimentary afternoon tea; warm scones, thick cream and raspberry jam, served with a pot of speciality loose leaf tea.

Then, in an attempt to work up an appetite for dinner, we walked a circuit of Tarn Hows where we spotted a rare "circumzenithal arc" in the sky.

On our return we enjoyed dinner in the contemporary but cosy restaurant where, to begin, we were unexpectedly served a delicious amuse bouche of leek, potato and fennel soup and some lovely crusty bread.

The menu isn't extensive but the choices were interesting and I could happily have eaten anything from it. For starters I was torn between the saltmarsh lamb, crisp sweetbread, courgette and lavender broth or the fillet beef tartare. I eventually went for the latter. Raw fillet of beef, finely chopped and mixed with diced cornichons and capers, the meat was well seasoned and a raw egg yolk sat on top, ready to break and ooze into the meat. It was my first experience of tartare so it's difficult to draw comparisons, but it was everything I expected and tasted divine.

Dave ordered the confit chicken, sage and pine nut ravioli with summer truffle and wild rocket. It was a large pasta parcel with a delicate filling and unmistakable note of truffle from the thinly shaved slices that adorned the plate.

My main was halibut fillet, served with garlic crushed potatoes, curly kale, butter clams, cucumber, lemon and tomato sauce. The fish was perfectly cooked, an accomplished dish and totally delicious.

Dave's breast of grouse, duck and grouse sausage, glazed carrots, mashed potatoes and bread sauce was equally good; local, seasonal ingredients treated with flair.

I could easily have been tempted by the cheeseboard, which offered a diverse range of British cheeses, each described in detail on the separate menu, but I had to pass. Instead Dave ordered coffee which came with some deliciously delicate and well executed petit fours.

After dinner we retired to the bar with its oak flooring, old beams, open fire and leather armchairs. The bar top itself is a beautiful slab of black slate from a nearby quarry and above it hang bunches of dried hops.
Out in the courtyard at the back of the Inn, they brew their own beers; Barngates Brewery produces a range of 7 or 8 different real ales, several of them named after long-gone pub pets. We enjoyed another excellent pint of Tag Lag, a refreshing fruity golden ale, before retreating to a neatly turned down comfy bed.

Breakfast the next morning was a real treat. Although other options were available, we both had fruit juice and then the full English; a thick herby sausage, crisp rashers of bacon, a softly poached egg, tomato, mushroom and a slab of proper black pudding. It was served with a rack of hot toast, including some fruit bread which was a nice addition.

Service was unobtrusive but prompt and friendly enough throughout our stay.

The only issue we encountered was with the water. We were informed on check in that the water was from their own supply up in the fells and although it does undergo various filtration and purification processes, it is pale peaty in colour with the odd bit of sediment finding its way through. This really wasn't an issue, but the lack of hot water and water pressure in general that we experienced at certain times, was. "Cleanliness is next to godliness" has never been my mantra so I wasn't overly worried for a one night stay, but can see that after a days walking you may be a little disgruntled with the lack of a hot bath.

Overall the Duck is the perfect venue for a quiet, relaxing country retreat. The fantastic food and drink, informal hospitality and gorgeous surroundings all play their part and the understated quality and those special little touches elevate the Duck above the norm.


The Drunken Duck Inn
Barngates, Ambleside, Cumbria. LA22 0NG

The Fish Shed at Dart's Farm

Darts Farm is a food lover’s haven and being conveniently located just off the M5 near Exeter it makes the perfect stop-off on the way to or from Cornwall. Sadly we were now on our way home but hit Exeter around lunch time, which inevitably meant a short detour for lunch at the Fish Shed at Dart's Farm. It certainly beats the motorway services!

Dart's Farm is a huge farm shop and deli, stocking produce from up to 200 different local food producers. There is also a restaurant which reportedly serves one of the best breakfasts in Devon (although I cannot confirm this) and the Fish Shed, which is both a wet fish shop and a great fish and chippery.

You pick your fish straight from the counter and it is cooked to order – either deep fried in batter or simply grilled. The fish, caught daily off the coast of Exmouth, is incredibly fresh and there is a good variety on offer - from cod and haddock to bream, sea bass and Dover sole. You can even have mussels poached with white wine, garlic and pesto or go the whole hog and order lobster and chips.

There are picnic tables in the outside courtyard and conveniently you can buy a drink to accompany your meal from the deli inside whilst you wait for your order to be cooked, which is exactly what we did.

Dave went for the monkfish which looked amazing, not least because it was served in a very generous portion.

I had battered scallops which made a nice change and although the portion wasn't as large it was very good indeed.

Both the chips and the batter were deliciously crisp and crunchy, fresh and just as good fish and chips should be.

We agreed that both the fish and chips were maybe even marginally better than Rick Stein's and undoubtedly the perfect way to round off our trip!

Darts Farm
Topsham, Nr. Exeter, EX3 0QH

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

The Greenhouse, St. Keverne

The Greenhouse is a great little find; an unassuming looking place just off the square in St. keverne, hidden away down on the Lizard peninsular. It is a small, village restaurant but with a huge emphasis on local, seasonal and organic produce.

Despite a mix up over the booking, which to be fair I had made 3 months in advance and without a follow up call, we received a warm reception. The chef-proprietors (Neil & Leonie Woodward) did everything they could to make us welcome and found us a table, despite not actually having our reservation and the restaurant already being fully booked.

We settled down with a pint of bottle conditioned Atlanic Gold - an organic beer from the Atlantic micro-brewery in Newquay - to peruse the blackboard menu. It's a small but interesting menu which changes on a weekly, even daily, basis depending on what is available and at its best. Neil describes the cooking as 'modern rustic' and it is epitomised in dishes such as Baked local scallops in their shells with black pudding, Pan fried plaice, local sea bass & monkfish with anchovy vermouth & caper sauce or Slow roast Cornish pork belly, braised puy lentils. They also do a weekly curry night in the winter months and a fish and seafood night every Wednesday throughout the year. Impressively everything from the artisan breads and pastries to ice-creams & sorbets are made on the premises.

The restaurant is informal, small and comfortable, essentially a couple of rooms of a cottage knocked through. It has an open kitchen at the far end and we could see Leonie calmly going about the cooking. Neil did the front of house himself and the service was first-class, despite there being a full dining room; unobtrusive yet prompt, friendly and helpful.

What is more, the food was startlingly good.

For starters I chose the wild rabbit terrine with home made picalli. Moist morsels of rabbit meat were surrounded in a lovely rabbit farce. The picalli was unequivocally the best I have had; lovely chunky crisp veggies in a piquant yellow sauce.

Dave had steamed Gweek mussels with coconut, chilli and coriander. Gweek is a tiny port at the top of the nearby Helford river and the quality of the local mussels was exceptional.

My main course of home smoked haddock croquettes with hollandaise sauce really worked well. The soft croquettes were full of smoky fish flavour, coated in a delicious crispy crumb and served in a pool of delicious hollandasie sauce with a wedge of lemon.

Dave had the Moroccan spiced mackerel with aubergine and yoghurt; a generous portion of two large very fresh mackerel with grilled aubergine and a minted cucumber yogurt sauce.

The main courses were served with Cornish new potatoes and some nicely cooked veg.

I just couldn't resist the tempting cheese menu, but was unable to find room for the full cheese plate. Instead I went for the single cheese option, choosing the Sharpham Rustic from Devon - a young semi-hard unpasteurised cheese with a moist, creamy texture - which was served simply with oatcakes and apple.

The commitment to the use of the best local ingredients is impressive and the quality of the food that is served here is testament to the owners' efforts.

You can even learn to bake bread at the Greenhouse as Neil also runs bread baking courses.

It is very refreshing indeed to stumble across a hidden gem like this. There are no celebrity chef endorsements or overly complicated menus, just simple tasty dishes, well made using the best local ingredients and served with genuine hospitality. We left feeling like we had made a major new discovery and already looking forward to another visit. So shh, keep this little place a secret between just you and me.

The Greenhouse
6, High street St Keverne Helston Cornwall TR12 6NN

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

The Cook Book

The Cook Book is a great little cafe cum bookshop in St. Just, an ancient mining town in the far west of Cornwall near Land's End. What better means to while away a thoroughly unpleasant wet, windy and misty Sunday afternoon than munching on delicious homemade cakes whilst browsing through the secondhand books!

The cafe serves an all day breakfast, seasonal soups, lunches, cakes and scones and as far as possible source local produce. It is dog and child friendly with cheerful staff and a warm welcoming atmosphere. There are daily newspapers laid out on a communal bar and the place is crammed with an ecletic selection of books - 5,000 or so in three rooms upstairs, spilling down the stairs and in the cafe itself.

Their cream tea is a true Cornish feast – two homemade scones and a saffron bun, served with Rodda’s Cornish Clotted Cream, delicious local Strawberry Jam and a big pot of tea. Saffron buns are a traditional Cornish specialty - rich yeast buns, coloured yellow with fresh saffron and loaded with currants. They are all to scarce these days, so a rare treat indeed.

Disappointingly Dave couldn't manage his saffron bun as well as the two large scones, so he wrapped it up for breakfast next morning!

The Cook Book claims to feed body and mind, it is true but places like this are also good for the soul.

The Cook Book
4 Cape Cornwall Street, St. Just, Cornwall TR19 7JZ

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

A Pasty Pilgrimage

Being in Cornwall you may wonder why we haven’t already indulged in a pasty or four by now. The reason is that we have been holding out for pasty perfection down on The Lizard, because once you have tasted one of Ann Muller’s famous pasties nothing else will do.

Ann’s Pasty Shop has been the place of our pasty pilgrimage for a number of years now and this year we had purposefully decided to choose a campsite within spitting distance so we could maximize our intake.

Ann is a passionate and loyal advocate of the humble pasty - you never talk of a "Cornish" pasty in Cornwall - and when William Grimes, New York Times food critic, cursed and likened them to a doorstop she burnt the American flag!

Once again we found Ann's little pasty shop, glowing like a bright yellow beacon in the quiet residential street. Rumour has it that at peak times up to 500 pasties a day are made and find their way out of the converted garage at the back of the house.

The traditional pasty contains just four ingredients: chopped beef (usually a cheap cut such as chuck or skirt), potatoes, onions, and swede (known in Cornwall as turnip). The vegetables are thinly sliced and the filling is always added to the pasty raw, never pre-cooked. The meat and vegetables are layered and seasoned with nothing more than salt and black pepper. The edges of the pastry are then taken up and sealed together with a series of twisting movements - the 'crimp'.

We ordered two medium pasties and hurried accross the road to the benches in the playing field to hungrily devour them. The pasties are so delicious I could cry. The pastry is golden and crispy on the outside, meltingly soft on the inside where the juices from the perfectly steamed meat and vegetables have soaked in. The chunks of beef are tender and the swede - sorry, turnip – adds a delicious sweetness. You can taste each element individually but what makes these pasties so good is the generous seasoning of freshly ground black pepper.

Ann’s pasties are without doubt the best in Cornwall and therefore, by definition, in the whole world.

Ann's Pasties
Sunny Corner, Beacon Terrace, The Lizard, TR12 7PB

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

The Outlaw

Thursday morning dawned wet and windy but we were determined to venture out. We eventually decided to take a trip aboard the passenger ferry over the Camel estuary to Rock, motivated by the prospect of lunch at Nathan Outlaw's Seafood and Grill.

Outlaw runs two restaurants, both located in the St Enodoc Hotel in Rock. The Seafood and Grill provides a more casual dining experience, compared to his main fine dining restaurant - Restaurant Nathan Outlaw.

Originally a graduate of Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant, Outlaw has become more of a household name after two appearances on Great British Menu. His previous establishments have held Michelin stars but a recent re-location from Fowey means he doesn't currently hold any. It can only be a matter of time.

Overlooking the Camel estuary, the Seafood and Grill is the perfect place for a relaxing lunch. However as the mist descended and the rain came down there was no chance of drinks on the terrace, or of us making the most of the magnificent views through the glass frontage. Still, inside the restaurant is very pleasant; modern, light and airy. We were slightly bedraggled after a short walk from the ferry landing and maybe lowered the tone somewhat, but received a friendly welcome and were soon seated by the huge windows.

Outlaw’s menus are driven by locally caught fresh seafood and the best seasonal produce that is available. The menu at the Seafood and Grill is short but perfectly showcases his amazing ingredients.

My starter was hand dived scallops with broad beans and ham hock dressing. Perfectly cooked, the soft scallop contrasted beautifully with the crispy, salty flakes of ham hock and fresh young beans. It was a delightful combination and easily the best scallops I have eaten in a long time.

Dave chose the Cornish duck leg salad with hazelnuts and boiled duck egg. There is something delightful about a soft oozy duck egg; it looked and tasted amazing.

For main I had the whole grilled lemon sole with brown shrimps, sea purslane and new potatoes. The delicately flavoured fish was cooked to translucent perfection and the purslane gave a beautiful, natural salty back note. I guess its use wholly encapsulates what Nathan Outlaw is about.

From the specials board Dave opted for the Monkfish tail with peas, clams and samphire. He also had a side of very buttery new potatoes, commenting that The Outlaw isn't shy of the butter.

We were fairly full and so shared an Elderflower cream with English raspberries for desert. It was light and delicate with the elderflower providing an enchanting floral note.

Dave followed all of this with a coffee and petit fours.

Service was friendly & proficient without being at all overbearing.

At £83.88 it wasn’t one of the cheapest lunches we’ve ever had, but we felt that the food itself was more than reasonably priced. It was all the little “extras” that added up; a couple of drinks, the fact that a bottle of still water was charged at £3.50 and the 10% service charge which was automatically added to the bill. However I’d more than happily pay for it again. The straightforward style and perfectly executed dishes certainly impressed. The food was top class throughout; it was hard to find any fault at all with the dishes and his flavour combinations were exceptional without being over complicated.

I guess you get what you pay for and, unlike the sun, Outlaw’s class shone out.

Nathan Outlaw Seafood and Grill
St. Enodoc Hotel, Rock, Cornwall, PL27 6LA, UK

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

The Cornish Arms, St. Merryn

Possibly the newest destination on the north Cornwall foodie map is Rick Stein's latest enterprise, this time a partnership with St. Austell Brewery with whom he has taken out a 15-year tenancy on The Cornish Arms in St. Merryn. Located just a couple of miles outside Padstow on a beautiful stretch of the north Cornwall coast, The Cornish Arms is a very quaint, picturesque pub and looks the perfect place to stop for a pub lunch, dinner or just an ale or two.

Apparently concern was expressed by the locals when Stein took over the pub last year, but rather than transform their village local into a modern and expensive gastro pub he seems to have succeeded in his aim of maintaining a community atmosphere and the feel of a traditional pub, which at the same time serves excellent pub food.

The inside it is spacious and welcoming. Bare chunky wooden tables dominate the main dining space and big glass doors at the bottom open onto a huge terrace with picnic tables. There are also a couple of smaller rooms and alcoves, one with a TV, and further tables and seating. There is also a lovely area to sit out at the front, overlooking the village church. At the time of our visit a massive marquee had been erected in the garden housing a big screen, bar and table football for the world cup.

As you would expect the bar offers the full range of 4 St. Austell Ales: Tribute, Tinners, HSD and Proper Job. We ordered a pint of Proper Job and managed to grab a seat at one of the few free tables. The ale was well kept and served with a slight head, a feature appreciated by us northerners.

The menu is relatively short and comprises of classic British pub grub, this is complimented by a blackboard menu with a handful of specials. Once you've found a seat and made your selection you order your food at the bar.

For starters I went with the mussels and was soon brought a big bowl for the empty shells, a spoon for the sauce and a bowl of hot water with lemon; a good start. When the mussels arrived each shell contained a sweet, meaty morsel and none remained closed. If I am honest there was a little too much diced onion but it was otherwise tasty and the mussels clearly very fresh and well cooked. The bread was delicious too, spread with soft Cornish butter it made a delicious vehicle for mopping up the remnants of the creamy sauce .

The crab Salad that Dave ordered arrived with a generous portion of picked white crab meat, a splodge of deep yellow, wobbly home made mayo and rustic foccacia bread; it certainly looked the part. The simplicity of the dish made the most of the fresh crab and it was delicious.

For my main course I chose ham, eggs and chips; a slice of ham covered the plate and the hot crispy chips were divine dipped into the perfect egg yolks. I felt obliged to have at least one of my five a day and also ordered a side dish of green salad, it would have benefited from a slick of dressing but the leaves were fresh.

Dave had the curry - Mumrez Khan’s lamb & spinach Kharahi curry. Described as "hot and spicy" on the menu it really had to live up to this assertion, and it did. It had a great depth of flavour and definitely packed a bit of a punch. The curry was served with fluffy rice and a couple of nice crisp poppadoms.

This is just the sort of food I want to eat over a couple of pints after a days walking; no nonsense, simple but excellent quality pub grub. It beats most other pubs I've eaten at hands down.

It seems that these days good food is an ever more important part of many a pub's success and here it works well. I really hope the locals appreciate this place as much as we did; if this was my local I wouldn't be able to keep away. We hear about pubs closing all the time, maybe if they took a steer from places like this more pubs would thrive as a viable and vital part of community life.

The Cornish Arms
Churchtown, St Merryn, Padstow, PL28 8ND

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

Stein's Fish & chips

A holiday in Cornwall would not be complete without at least a couple of fish 'n' chip suppers. There is nothing better after a day out in the fresh sea air and few can rival those served up at Rick Stein's fish & chip shop in Padstow. Besides which, a holiday in "Padstein" would not be complete without a visit to at least one of Stein's many ventures! So upon arrival it was up with the tent and straight down to the harbour for tea.

Firstly let's get the issue of the queues out of the way. Padstow is busy and it is probable that at peak times you will have to queue at Stein's; accept this as a fact and tell yourself it will be worth it (I assure you it is).

You can choose to eat in the white-tiled restaurant, sat at the long wooden communal benches, or you can grab a takeaway to eat on the quay side. Watch out for the seagulls though; they’re bullies and will take off with the whole box given half a chance.

There is an amazing selection of spankingly fresh fish on offer - from the usual suspects such as cod, haddock and plaice to species more unfamiliar to the fish fryer such as mackerel, squid, skate, sea bream, monkfish and lemon sole. You can choose to have it grilled, fried or more traditionally battered and deep fried in beef dripping.

This time we went for battered Hake, as a more sustainable alternative to cod or haddock. Hake is a deep-sea fish from the cod family but with a more subtle flavour than that of its relative. It is quite a mild fish, with a white flaky texture. The batter was amazingly crunchy and the fish was good, although for some reason I found the texture a little "woolly".

On a second visit later in the week I went for the scampi and Dave had battered monkfish. Maybe my expectations were too high and I was slightly disappointed with what seemed to be standard, bought in breaded scampi. I wanted proper homemade battered scampi, made with big chunky langoustine tails but it wasn't to be. Don't get me wrong the scampi was okay, but nothing exceptional. The monkfish on the other hand was a revelation; the big meaty chunks of fish worked exceptionally well encased in crisp batter.

The fish is always served with some of the most gloriously hot and crispy chips I have ever eaten and they are presented together in a neat box with a wedge of lemon and spring of parsley. They are never soggy or overly greasy and taste divine, the flavour only dripping can bring. All the usual trimmings are available too - mushy peas, homemade tartar sauce, and even aioli and curry sauce. We opted for some pleasingly green mush peas and a portion of tartare sauce. The tartar sauce is rich and creamy. It is good - definitely beating anything that comes in a sachet - but could do with a little more piquancy to contrast with the fried food. It doesn't have that essential sharpness to cut through the richness and therefore I feel the point is somewhat lost.

We washed our meals down with a pint of Chalky's Bark, a beer created by the Sharp's brewery over the estuary in Rock in honour of Rick's late dog. At 4.5% and lightly flavoured with fresh ginger, it's very refreshing and makes a perfect accompaniment to fish and chips.

Stein’s fish and chip shop is definitely worth more than just a look-in, especially if you can't get in at his restaurant which is always booked up months in advance. As a northern lass I take my fish and chips seriously and in my opinion, despite the occasional minor gripe, they dish up an outstanding portion at Stein's.

Stein's Fish & chips
South Quay, Padstow, Cornwall

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

Canteen; Spitalfields, London

You could be forgiven if the term "canteen" conjures up bad memories of school dinners or second rate lunches served up in a work cafeteria, but this image couldn't be further from the truth here. Canteen does not pretend to offer fine dining, but does unapologetically offer a menu of solid British classics. It is unpretentious, carefully sourced and well cooked food at reasonable prices.

Canteen serves a casual all day menu from breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. Nostalgia reigns and the menu pays homage to homely British grub; pies, stews and roasts (which change daily), macaroni cheese, Arbroath smokies, devilled kidneys and the good old fish finger sandwich all feature. The dishes are simple favourites, but all homemade and cooked to order using free range, additive free and seasonal produce.

Located in the re-developed Old Spitalfileds Market, inside the restaurant is surprisingly modern and minimalist; something of a cross between a functional transport caff and Wagamamas. There are communal wooden bench tables but also booth seating, along with a large covered outdoor dining area. The kitchen is open and you can see the chefs at work.

We visited for an early dinner last Friday whilst in London; it was perfect for a quick, informal yet good quality meal before the football.

On arrival we were seated in one of the booths by the huge glass windows overlooking the market. We ordered drinks - a fresh lemonade and an "English Rose" (a refreshingly different long mixer of cranberry, apple and rose) - which arrived promptly and our food order was taken by the friendly waiter.

We decided to share a starter (unusually, even I already had one eye on the tempting deserts) and so we ordered the Potted duck with piccalilli and toast. The duck was smooth and tasty and the toast to spread ratio was spot on. If I am being picky, for me the piccalilli was slightly too sweet and I felt that the dish would have benefited from it being a bit sharper, just to offset the rich meat. But a good start all the same.

For mains I went for the roast free range chicken, garlic mayonnaise and chips. Available as leg and thigh or wing and breast meat, I chose the former and it was deliciously succulent with beautiful crispy skin. The chips were a cross between french fries and thicker chip shop style chips, with crunchy edges - perfect dipped in the pungent garlic mayo. This was really simple cooking but, even so, utterly heavenly.

Dave had the daily roast, today it was pork and served with roast potatoes, spring greens and gravy and apple sauce. The pork was tender and full of flavour, topped with crispy pork crackling and tasty gravy.

The deserts sounded good enough to entice me away from the Neal's Yard cheese and I finished with Blackcurrant jelly, ice cream and shortbread. The jelly wasn't completely clear but was deliciously sharp and loaded with blackcurrant flavour. Dave opted for the classic Treacle tart with clotted cream; great comfort food.

Canteen's no-nonsense traditional menu has brought good British cooking back to the capital's high streets and it didn't disappoint. Unlike the England football team who let the side down with a deeply unsatisfactory 0-0 bore draw with Algeria. Maybe they are missing their food.

Canteen
2 Crispin Place, Spitalfields, London, E1 6DW

Nearest tube - Liverpool St.

Also branches in Baker St, Canary Wharfe & Royal Festival Hall