A Great British Appetite

The Old Forge, Knoydart

2011-05-24T22:37:00.036+01:00

With no roads in or out, The Old Forge in the tiny village of Inverie on the Knoydart peninsula is the most remote pub on mainland Britain (as certified by the Guinness book of records). Known as the last wilderness area in Great Britain, getting here involves an 18 mile hike over the peninsula's munros or a 7 mile scenic sea crossing. We opted to take one of the passenger ferries from the port of Malliag.

After a rather damp and misty crossing we landed at the pier in picturesque Inverie. Situated right on the seashore, The Old Forge looks out over stunning Loch Nevis to the Outer Isles.

Inside the pub is cosy and comfortable; a welcome respite from the miserable weather. There is often live music here and, I imagine, a great atmoshphere, but on a wet Saturday afternoon there were just a smattering of brave folk who had made the trip.

Looking out through the big windows there is little doubt where the seafood comes from; it is all caught locally within a 15 mile radius - Loch Nevis, Loch Nan Uamh, Sound of Sleat, Isle of Skye and Rum waters. Scallops are hand dived, usually from Loch Nevis or Arisiag. Langoustines are creel caught of the local fishing boats. The mackerel is line caught and the mussels are rope line farmed locally. Deeper water fish come from Andy Race fish merchants in Mallaig.
There are also a selection of real ales on offer, from Glenfinnan Brewery and Isle of Skye Breweries, as well as national breweries when the limited micro brewery supplies are not available or the Skye ferry is not operating on schedule.

I had to have The Old Forge prawn platter; fresh Loch Nevis langoustines, mixed salad, homemade marie rose sauce and brown bread. Served simply, whole and shell on with a lobster cracker and fork, the lanugoustine were a feast of huge succulent, sweetness. Cooked simply and as fresh as this they were amazing.

Dave needed warming up after the chilly ferry crossing and went for the mussels in cream and white wine. The mussels were fresh, plump and juicy and the lovely thick chunks of bread perfect for mopping up the plentiful sauce.

For dessert we both opted for the sticky toffee pudding, which was comforting and delicious.

We tried to take a walk along the shore after lunch, but the rain came lashing down and we had to take shelter before we caught the return ferry back to Mallaig.

Although the Scottish weather left much to be desired, The Old Forge did not. It's spectacular out of the way location and fresh, simply cooked seafood make it well worth an excursion.

The Old Forge
Inverie, Knoydart, Mallaig, PH41 4PL

The Cross Keys, Holbeck Urban Village

2010-11-23T18:22:00.027Z

You will find The Cross Keys tucked away on the edge of Leeds city centre, in what is now known as "Holbeck Urban Village" - yet it is definitely no ordinary urban pub.

Holbeck Urban Village (HUV) sounds slightly pretentious and, for those who know the area, somewhat euphemistic; once the industrial heartland of Leeds, more latterly Holbeck had become a semi-derelict red-light district. However a program of regeneration has seen the beginnings of a transformation into a cool new mixed use business and residential community.

Built in 1802, The Cross Keys was a hostelry for local foundry workers and boasts a colourful history. Then in the 1980s the pub was closed and left to decay, until it was rescued by the folks behind the legendary North Bar. Following an extensive renovation, life has now been brought back to this historical landmark from the height of Leeds’ industrial past.

Step in off the street and you are transported into 21st century pub heaven. It has all the qualities of a traditional British pub, but with a modern twist. There are some great original features; wooden floors, beams, brick walls and a wood-burning stove and the decor is all vintage mirrors, old pictures and patterned china plates. The result is a rather cool urban hang out, rather than some olde worlde pub, but it strikes a great balance and still manages to be cosy and full of character. There is also a rather amazing outdoor courtyard for alfresco drinking and summer BBQs.

On the bar you'll find some excellent local ales, usully including an offering from Roosters of Knaresborough, accompanied by three changing guest beers and a great wine list. There is also an extensive inventory of draught and bottled beer and cider.

We ordered a couple of pints of Roosters and grabbed a table in the bar. It was Thursday evening and the place was busy with a lively mix of people eating and after work drinkers.

They serve an interesting menu of traditional British food made from locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. It is a limited menu (in size, not appeal) but is usually complemented by a couple of specials. They explain that by "British" food they mean dishes that capture the heritage and heart of the nation's food culture, recreating and reinventing long lost recipes and traditional classics indigenous to our islands - not some generic homogeneous gastro pub menu offering Thai spiced fishcakes or tomato mozzarella tart. On our last visit I enjoyed a really smashing rabbit pie, so was keen to find out what was on offer on the autumn menu.

For his starter Dave chose the Cullen skink with thyme croutons. It was served with the rich velvety soup in a jug to pour over the moist smoked fish, potatoes and croutons.

I had the Gloucester Old Spot pork terrine, pickled onions and toast; a generous slab of porky terrine slathered onto thick hot toast with a welcome hint of piquancy from the onions.

For mains I procrastinated over the intriguingly sounding cauliflower cheese with deep fried duck egg, autumn greens and tarragon dressing. However in the end neither of us could resist the Swaledale lamb - rump and breast of lamb with pearl barley, fennel and rosemary juices (definitely not jus!). We also went for a side order of buttered kale, despite advice from our helpful waiter that the portion would probably be sufficiently hearty without any extras. The lamb was tasty and well cooked; the rump slightly pink, the breast rolled and slow roasted until meltingly tender. I don't recall ever having seen lamb breast on a pub menu before and although it is undoubtedly fatty, it is a very tasty cut. The pale green fennel puree was perfectly smooth and added a welcome freshness to the rich, earthy dish. It also benefited from the addition of the kale which gave added colour to what was essentially a delicious but quite brown plate of food.

For desert we shared a chocolate tart with salted lavender caramel, which was a revelation. The pastry was thin and crisp and the subtle salty notes from the otherwise sweet caramel sauce provide a perfect balance to the bitter chocolate.

I cannot testify (yet), but hear they also do an excellent Sunday Roast.

What's more there is a real attempt by the owners play an active role in the revitalisation of this emerging part of the city and to connect with the local community. They hold seasonal markets in the courtyard, a weekly quiz and offer take away fish & chips as well as a parcel minding service for locals.

The short walk into Holbeck is more than worth your while for a traditional but chic pub with an impressive ethos and a fantastic menu of hearty food and proper beer.

The Cross Keys
107 Water Lane, Leeds LS11 5WD

The Punch Bowl Inn, Swaledale

2010-10-02T10:25:00.065+01:00

We'd spent an enjoyable afternoon exploring the secrets of Upper Swaledale, opting to walk a circular route from Keld over Kisdon fell to the idyllic village of Muker and back along the banks of the fast flowing River Swale. This is a classic ramble, affording magnificent views of Swaledale and with added interest in the form of the intriguingly named "Corpse Way", the famous hay meadows, gushing waterfalls and plentiful evidence of the area's industrial lead mining past.

Tired from the fresh air and our exertions we were looking forward to a hot bath, dinner and a comfy bed. We headed along the main road that gently meanders its way through the narrow valley bottom, to the Punchbowl Inn in the tiny straggling hamlet of Low Row. The unassuming, rather plain flat fronted exterior of this 17th century inn belies the delights within

Now owned by the same family as the excellent Charles Bathurst Inn ("The CB") in neighbouring Arkengarthdale, inside The Punch Bowl has been carefully renovated. The contemporary yet traditional style still manages to retain something of the essential character of the original 17th century inn; the bare wooden floors and stone fireplaces have been preserved and old black and white photos of bygone characters and times dot the walls.

We checked in and were shown to our small but tastefully decorated room, looking out across Swaledale. For a while we took in the stunning views; the fell side on the opposite side of the valley swooping down from the dark moorland skyline through the maze of stone walls and green fields to meet the river below.

It wasn't long before our thoughts turned to refreshment and we headed downstairs. The bar area hosts a wood burning stove and a unique oak bar, hand made by local craftsman Robert ‘The Mouseman’ Thompson. The bar stools all have his trademark mouse individually carved on the seat. There is a good range of locally brewed real ale on offer and we enjoyed a perfect pint of Black Sheep Special before dinner.

The only copy of the menu is daubed in white on two wooden framed mirrors at the far end of the bar. It was difficult to read due to the light and also slightly disconcerting to see ones own ruddy cheeks reflecting back through the jumble of words. However the PB's commitment to using only the best local and seasonal produce is more than evident, the menu relying heavily on meat and game from the surrounding moors and local cheeses.

For starters I chose sesame fried mackerel with tomato and caper salsa, the mackerel was really fresh and the dish worked well. Dave had potato skins with Wensleydale cheese and bacon.

My beef, bacon & red wine casserole with a puff pastry lid really hit the mark; it was packed with flavour and big chunks of tender meat.

Dave's choice of pan fried duck breast served with a ballotine of leg and fondant potato, was slightly more refined. The breast was perfectly pink and juicy with a puddle of tasty gravy.

Our mains were accompanied by a generous portion of well cooked veggies; cheese topped mash potato, carrots, green beans and roast turnip.

The dishes were solid, well executed and portions were definitely hearty; it was just the sort of food we had craved after a day in the outdoors.

After dinner we returned to the bar, where Dave had a pint of Riggwelter. The atmosphere was buzzy and the bar staff were more than happy to strike up conversation. However perched at the bar, surrounded by tables of people eating, you can't help feeling that this isn't really a place where locals drop by for a drink. The emphasis is clearly on food and the vibe is definitely more boutique than muddy boots. If I am being overly critical it is somewhat too stylised, the homogeneous muted shade on all the walls giving the impression of being inside a slightly sterile giant mushroom. It somehow lacks the classic feel of an old-fashioned country pub. Nonetheless what the bar lacks in traditional atmosphere, the view & food more than make up for.

After a comfortable night's sleep we were ready for breakfast. For me it just had to be kippers, they are not seen often enough on breakfast menus; the whole fish was lightly smoked and moist. Safe in the knowledge that he was supporting the local farmers and butchers, Dave tucked into his quality full English. It was all accompanied by juice, a rack of hot toast, jam, marmalade and a big cafetiere of fresh coffee. Perfect.

Swaledale is one of the wilder, more remote northern dales and definitely enjoys a quieter tone. It is a valley suited to seekers of secrets, rather than those who want their recreation conveniently presented on a plate. It remains pleasingly undeveloped; brown-signposted attractions are few and far between, but if you are willing to scratch deeper than the surface and look beyond the obvious you will find a truly enchanting place. The Punch Bowl is perfectly placed for those wanting to explore these delights; good food and accommodation, warm hospitality and an authentic Yorkshire Dales experience await.

Punch Bowl Inn
Low Row, Richmond, North Yorkshire DL11 6PF

Chesters By The River, Skelwith Bridge

2010-09-12T21:37:00.018+01:00

Chesters sits in a picturesque location by the river Brathay in Skelwith Bridge, at the mouth of the stunning Langdale valley. Operated by the same family as The Drunken Duck Inn, Chesters is named after the roguish white English Bull Terrier who ruled the roost at the pub in the eighties.

Serving breakfast, lunch, drinks and legendary home made cakes throughout the day it makes a naughty but extremely nice stop-off at any time.

They make and bake everything on the premises, including all the jams, chutneys, breads, cakes and pastries, using traditional recipes and natural, good quality, seasonal ingredients. In the summer you can relax on the decked terrace looking out over the water, or in the colder months sit inside by the roaring fire.

We dropped by for an indulgent breakfast before a walk in the Langdale valley and, as it was sunny morning, we sat outside. We were the first to arrive, but by the time we were ready to leave there wasn't a free table. This charming cafe is clearly a honeypot for those who know a good cake when they see one, and I can definitely see why.

Dave's American pancakes with maple syrup looked amazing; 3 very thick and fluffy pancakes adorned with blackcurrant compote, cream and a shot of syrup. They made for the perfect sweet holiday breakfast treat.

I had the potato scone with bacon and poached egg, the portion was slightly more modest but lovely all the same and clearly made with good quality produce.

I am by no means a connoisseur, but the coffee was really good too. We each had a latte which was nicely milky and not too strong, with the bonus of being served in huge cups.

There is marvellous array of very tempting cakes on display behind the counter. You will find classic favorites such as flapjack, brownies, lemon meringue pie, carrot cake and chocolate cake alongside the likes of tiffin, raspberry oat and nut slice, banana and walnut loaf with toffee sauce, apricot and almond puff pastry pie and lemon and blueberry baby bundt. Or there is the option of a freshly baked scone with homemade raspberry jam & whipped cream, it's apparently the same scone recipe they used for the first batch almost 26 years ago.

After breakfast we couldn't do the slabs of cakes justice, but we'll definitely be back to sample the baking soon.

Chesters By The River
Skelwith Bridge, Nr Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9NJ

The Drunken Duck Inn, Ambleside

2010-09-06T21:45:00.037+01:00

The Drunken Duck lies in the heart of the Lake District and its isolated location on a crossroads high above Lake Windermere provides a stunning setting for this outstanding Lakeland Inn. It is surrounded by high fells and some of England's finest countryside but, breathtaking views aside, the Duck is also renowned for its excellent food and own brewed beer.

After checking in and being shown to our comfortable room (noting the jar of homemade flapjacks on the side), we went down to the lovely garden by the small tarn and tucked into a complimentary afternoon tea; warm scones, thick cream and raspberry jam, served with a pot of speciality loose leaf tea.

Then, in an attempt to work up an appetite for dinner, we walked a circuit of Tarn Hows where we spotted a rare "circumzenithal arc" in the sky.

On our return we enjoyed dinner in the contemporary but cosy restaurant where, to begin, we were unexpectedly served a delicious amuse bouche of leek, potato and fennel soup and some lovely crusty bread.

The menu isn't extensive but the choices were interesting and I could happily have eaten anything from it. For starters I was torn between the saltmarsh lamb, crisp sweetbread, courgette and lavender broth or the fillet beef tartare. I eventually went for the latter. Raw fillet of beef, finely chopped and mixed with diced cornichons and capers, the meat was well seasoned and a raw egg yolk sat on top, ready to break and ooze into the meat. It was my first experience of tartare so it's difficult to draw comparisons, but it was everything I expected and tasted divine.

Dave ordered the confit chicken, sage and pine nut ravioli with summer truffle and wild rocket. It was a large pasta parcel with a delicate filling and unmistakable note of truffle from the thinly shaved slices that adorned the plate.

My main was halibut fillet, served with garlic crushed potatoes, curly kale, butter clams, cucumber, lemon and tomato sauce. The fish was perfectly cooked, an accomplished dish and totally delicious.

Dave's breast of grouse, duck and grouse sausage, glazed carrots, mashed potatoes and bread sauce was equally good; local, seasonal ingredients treated with flair.

I could easily have been tempted by the cheeseboard, which offered a diverse range of British cheeses, each described in detail on the separate menu, but I had to pass. Instead Dave ordered coffee which came with some deliciously delicate and well executed petit fours.

After dinner we retired to the bar with its oak flooring, old beams, open fire and leather armchairs. The bar top itself is a beautiful slab of black slate from a nearby quarry and above it hang bunches of dried hops.
Out in the courtyard at the back of the Inn, they brew their own beers; Barngates Brewery produces a range of 7 or 8 different real ales, several of them named after long-gone pub pets. We enjoyed another excellent pint of Tag Lag, a refreshing fruity golden ale, before retreating to a neatly turned down comfy bed.

Breakfast the next morning was a real treat. Although other options were available, we both had fruit juice and then the full English; a thick herby sausage, crisp rashers of bacon, a softly poached egg, tomato, mushroom and a slab of proper black pudding. It was served with a rack of hot toast, including some fruit bread which was a nice addition.

Service was unobtrusive but prompt and friendly enough throughout our stay.

The only issue we encountered was with the water. We were informed on check in that the water was from their own supply up in the fells and although it does undergo various filtration and purification processes, it is pale peaty in colour with the odd bit of sediment finding its way through. This really wasn't an issue, but the lack of hot water and water pressure in general that we experienced at certain times, was. "Cleanliness is next to godliness" has never been my mantra so I wasn't overly worried for a one night stay, but can see that after a days walking you may be a little disgruntled with the lack of a hot bath.

Overall the Duck is the perfect venue for a quiet, relaxing country retreat. The fantastic food and drink, informal hospitality and gorgeous surroundings all play their part and the understated quality and those special little touches elevate the Duck above the norm.

The Drunken Duck Inn
Barngates, Ambleside, Cumbria. LA22 0NG

Surprise Pizza in the Yokshire Dales

2010-08-15T14:26:00.014+01:00

The Red Lion at Burnsall is well known locally, both for its picturesque location in the Yorkshire Dales and as a lovely old pub with rooms serving fine food.

We stopped by recently one Saturday afternoon for a beer, having spent a day relaxing with friends by the River, swimming and catching crayfish.

The intention was to sit outside and have a cheeky beer in the late sunshine before heading back to our camp in Appletreewick, but after a couple of pints (the Timothy Taylor's Landlord was on great form) we spotted a pizza menu on the bar and decided to stay for a quick bite to eat. After enquiring with the bar staff we were directed round the back and across the car park to the grounds of the Manor House B&B, where we eventually stumbled across the River Cafe, nestled in the house gardens overlooking the River Wharfe and the hills beyond.

We ordered our food inside, along with a glass of Rose and a couple of bottles of Black Sheep Bitter and sat down at a picnic bench in the beautiful garden. Our drinks were quickly brought out and we happily waited, anticipating our food and enjoying the amazing views of the river and fells. We saw a chef come over from the pub and shortly our food was delivered.

We started with a portion of Dough Balls & Garlic Bread (£2.95 each). The garlic butter was deliciously heady with garlic and the handmade Dough balls rivalled any you can get in Pizza Express. With a crisp crust and doughy interior they were dunked into the pot of garlic butter and devoured; a hit.

Our pizzas promptly followed. We had opted to share a Margherita (the usual mozzarella, tomato & herbs, but with the extra addition of pepperoni - £5.50), a Hot Spicy Beef (minced beef, chorizo, jalapenos, onions, green pepper with Tabasco - £5.95) and a Rusticella (baked then topped with Parma ham, rocket, oven roasted tomatoes and parmesan - £5.95).

The pizza bases were very thin but the toppings generous and spread right to the edge. This meant that whilst not exactly crispy, there was just enough soft dough to carry the tasty toppings into our greedy, gaping mouths! The pizzas were delicious; not at all greasy and nor did they have that duvet-like thickness that often puts me off a badly made takeaway.

The sweet intensity of the tomatoes with the salty ham and peppery rocket on the Rusticella was a particularly memorable combination, but ultimately we couldn't agree or decide which one we liked best.

We are still not sure if it was just because we were slightly squiffy – yes it is possible that we were seduced by the delightful location, sunshine and the surprise and spontaneity of finding great pizza in the Yorkshire Dales - but we all agreed that these were some of the best pizzas we have eaten! Our experience was probably enhanced by the deliciously unexpected nature of our visit and the perfect end to the day but we would definitely recommend this hidden gem for a quick, cheap bite to eat. Well worth a visit - if you can resist the lure of the Red Lion itself, that is.

Dine inside or out, or also available to takeaway, the River Cafe at the Manor House is open for Pizza Friday, Saturday, Sunday and bank holiday Mondays 5.00pm - 9.00pm. Yum!

The Red Lion & Manor House B&B
Burnsall, Near Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 6BU

The Fish Shed at Dart's Farm

2010-08-15T13:37:00.017+01:00

Darts Farm is a food lover’s haven and being conveniently located just off the M5 near Exeter it makes the perfect stop-off on the way to or from Cornwall. Sadly we were now on our way home but hit Exeter around lunch time, which inevitably meant a short detour for lunch at the Fish Shed at Dart's Farm. It certainly beats the motorway services!

Dart's Farm is a huge farm shop and deli, stocking produce from up to 200 different local food producers. There is also a restaurant which reportedly serves one of the best breakfasts in Devon (although I cannot confirm this) and the Fish Shed, which is both a wet fish shop and a great fish and chippery.

You pick your fish straight from the counter and it is cooked to order – either deep fried in batter or simply grilled. The fish, caught daily off the coast of Exmouth, is incredibly fresh and there is a good variety on offer - from cod and haddock to bream, sea bass and Dover sole. You can even have mussels poached with white wine, garlic and pesto or go the whole hog and order lobster and chips.

There are picnic tables in the outside courtyard and conveniently you can buy a drink to accompany your meal from the deli inside whilst you wait for your order to be cooked, which is exactly what we did.

Dave went for the monkfish which looked amazing, not least because it was served in a very generous portion.

I had battered scallops which made a nice change and although the portion wasn't as large it was very good indeed.

Both the chips and the batter were deliciously crisp and crunchy, fresh and just as good fish and chips should be.

We agreed that both the fish and chips were maybe even marginally better than Rick Stein's and undoubtedly the perfect way to round off our trip!

Darts Farm
Topsham, Nr. Exeter, EX3 0QH

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

The Greenhouse, St. Keverne

2010-08-07T08:51:00.011+01:00

The Greenhouse is a great little find; an unassuming looking place just off the square in St. keverne, hidden away down on the Lizard peninsular. It is a small, village restaurant but with a huge emphasis on local, seasonal and organic produce.

Despite a mix up over the booking, which to be fair I had made 3 months in advance and without a follow up call, we received a warm reception. The chef-proprietors (Neil & Leonie Woodward) did everything they could to make us welcome and found us a table, despite not actually having our reservation and the restaurant already being fully booked.

We settled down with a pint of bottle conditioned Atlanic Gold - an organic beer from the Atlantic micro-brewery in Newquay - to peruse the blackboard menu. It's a small but interesting menu which changes on a weekly, even daily, basis depending on what is available and at its best. Neil describes the cooking as 'modern rustic' and it is epitomised in dishes such as Baked local scallops in their shells with black pudding, Pan fried plaice, local sea bass & monkfish with anchovy vermouth & caper sauce or Slow roast Cornish pork belly, braised puy lentils. They also do a weekly curry night in the winter months and a fish and seafood night every Wednesday throughout the year. Impressively everything from the artisan breads and pastries to ice-creams & sorbets are made on the premises.

The restaurant is informal, small and comfortable, essentially a couple of rooms of a cottage knocked through. It has an open kitchen at the far end and we could see Leonie calmly going about the cooking. Neil did the front of house himself and the service was first-class, despite there being a full dining room; unobtrusive yet prompt, friendly and helpful.

What is more, the food was startlingly good.

For starters I chose the wild rabbit terrine with home made picalli. Moist morsels of rabbit meat were surrounded in a lovely rabbit farce. The picalli was unequivocally the best I have had; lovely chunky crisp veggies in a piquant yellow sauce.

Dave had steamed Gweek mussels with coconut, chilli and coriander. Gweek is a tiny port at the top of the nearby Helford river and the quality of the local mussels was exceptional.

My main course of home smoked haddock croquettes with hollandaise sauce really worked well. The soft croquettes were full of smoky fish flavour, coated in a delicious crispy crumb and served in a pool of delicious hollandasie sauce with a wedge of lemon.

Dave had the Moroccan spiced mackerel with aubergine and yoghurt; a generous portion of two large very fresh mackerel with grilled aubergine and a minted cucumber yogurt sauce.

The main courses were served with Cornish new potatoes and some nicely cooked veg.

I just couldn't resist the tempting cheese menu, but was unable to find room for the full cheese plate. Instead I went for the single cheese option, choosing the Sharpham Rustic from Devon - a young semi-hard unpasteurised cheese with a moist, creamy texture - which was served simply with oatcakes and apple.

The commitment to the use of the best local ingredients is impressive and the quality of the food that is served here is testament to the owners' efforts.

You can even learn to bake bread at the Greenhouse as Neil also runs bread baking courses.

It is very refreshing indeed to stumble across a hidden gem like this. There are no celebrity chef endorsements or overly complicated menus, just simple tasty dishes, well made using the best local ingredients and served with genuine hospitality. We left feeling like we had made a major new discovery and already looking forward to another visit. So shh, keep this little place a secret between just you and me.

The Greenhouse
6, High street St Keverne Helston Cornwall TR12 6NN

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

The Cook Book

2010-08-05T21:07:00.011+01:00

The Cook Book is a great little cafe cum bookshop in St. Just, an ancient mining town in the far west of Cornwall near Land's End. What better means to while away a thoroughly unpleasant wet, windy and misty Sunday afternoon than munching on delicious homemade cakes whilst browsing through the secondhand books!

The cafe serves an all day breakfast, seasonal soups, lunches, cakes and scones and as far as possible source local produce. It is dog and child friendly with cheerful staff and a warm welcoming atmosphere. There are daily newspapers laid out on a communal bar and the place is crammed with an ecletic selection of books - 5,000 or so in three rooms upstairs, spilling down the stairs and in the cafe itself.

Their cream tea is a true Cornish feast – two homemade scones and a saffron bun, served with Rodda’s Cornish Clotted Cream, delicious local Strawberry Jam and a big pot of tea. Saffron buns are a traditional Cornish specialty - rich yeast buns, coloured yellow with fresh saffron and loaded with currants. They are all to scarce these days, so a rare treat indeed.

Disappointingly Dave couldn't manage his saffron bun as well as the two large scones, so he wrapped it up for breakfast next morning!

The Cook Book claims to feed body and mind, it is true but places like this are also good for the soul.

The Cook Book
4 Cape Cornwall Street, St. Just, Cornwall TR19 7JZ

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

Polpeor Cafe

2010-08-03T22:15:00.031+01:00

Polpeor Cafe proudly lays claim to being the most southerly cafe in mainland Britain and it enjoys a stunning position perched perilously on the edge of the steep cliffs at Lizard Point, under the flash of the substantial Lighthouse.

The cafe itself is little more than a small cabin with a corrugated roof. It has a traditional, almost retro, vibe; not in the trendy sense but certainly not in a naff way either, you just get a feeling that it is slightly old fashioned yet a very homely and genuine place.

It is open during the day selling all manner of drinks and delicious homemade delights, but during the summer you can also enjoy an early dinner, sitting outside on the back terrace. The no-frills plastic tables and chairs don't detract from the experience in the slightest and with uninterrupted sea views it really is the most perfect location. If you are lucky you may see a rare Cornish chough (a member of the crow family with a distinctive red beak and legs) or even a seal in the water below.

It is BYO so we took along a bottle of Polgoon Aval, which the friendly staff were also happy to chill for us whilst we waited for our food in the evening sunshine.

Dave ordered the Luxury Fish Pie which seemed to be popular and, he declared, for very good reason. Generous chunks of white fish and prawns were covered in sauce and a bubbling golden top of potato.

The steak and kidney pie had tempted me, but being so close to the sea I felt obliged to do it's bounty justice. So I chose the Fish platter and it arrived loaded with white and brown crab meat, prawns, grilled mackerel and sardines, served with a fresh salad and bread and butter. I had also ordered a portion of chips, which I realised was rather greedy when I saw the size of the platter itself!

For desert we shared the cafe's special - homemade Jubilee Meringue with blackberry and apple compote, Cornish ice cream and clotted cream. The meringue was exactly as meringue should be; crunchy yet still chewy and gorgeously gooey in the middle. It was retro heaven.

The food is all cooked fresh to order in a small lean to kitchen and was fabulously good. It's not just about the food though, here everything conspires to make for a very charming experience .

We made the walk back up into the village and stopped for a few beers at the local pub. Given the sign outside it would have been rude not to and after a couple of pints of Skinners Betty Stogs Bitter, I can confirm that we were very happy campers indeed!

Polpeor Cafe
Lizard Point, The Lizard, Helston, Cornwall, TR12 7NU

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

Polgoon

2010-07-26T20:48:00.011+01:00

Polgoon is a newly established vineyard and orchard based just outside Penzance in south Cornwall. The owners, John and Kim Coulson, have developed a derelict farm into a flourishing business, producing award winning products.

Their wines are already highly regarded, but for me the stand out product is the Polgoon Aval - a sparkling champagne style cider made using the traditional French champagne method of a second fermentation in the bottle. The result this a crisp, elegant and very refined grown up tipple. Ironically it is everything that I am not, but I just love it! It is deliciously appley, yet dry and very refreshing. It makes a great English alternative to the more obvious Champagne and certainly stands up to its French counterpart in terms of taste and quality.

Only a couple of years in to the new venture when their grape crops failed due to the terrible weather, the Coulson's, not to be deterred, focused their efforts on producing other products. They created and perfected the Polgoon Aval using apples from the orchard and it soon became a big hit. Even better then that this great British drink arose from such adversity.

Aval is the Cornish word for Apple, so what more appropriate name for a Cornish drink made from Apples. They also make Aval Rosé with the addition of raspberries, very much like pink champagne, and a pear cider called Polgoon Peren (that's Cornish for pear).

We dropped by Plogoon for some cellar door sales but as it happened we managed to gate crash a tour of the vineyard. The Three Hungry Boys from the Channel 4 TV show were being shown around and we were lucky enough to be invited to join in. Clearly very passionate about what they are doing at Polgoon, the friendly and enthusiastic owners deserve to suceed.

It's difficult to find Polgoon Aval outside of the South West but most definitely worth tracking down. It is is being stocked by River Cottage and Rick Stein, amongst others, and a full list if stockists can be found on their website.

Polgoon Vineyard

Rosehill, Penzance, Cornwall, TR20 8TE

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

A Pasty Pilgrimage

2010-07-22T22:43:00.013+01:00

Being in Cornwall you may wonder why we haven’t already indulged in a pasty or four by now. The reason is that we have been holding out for pasty perfection down on The Lizard, because once you have tasted one of Ann Muller’s famous pasties nothing else will do.

Ann’s Pasty Shop has been the place of our pasty pilgrimage for a number of years now and this year we had purposefully decided to choose a campsite within spitting distance so we could maximize our intake.

Ann is a passionate and loyal advocate of the humble pasty - you never talk of a "Cornish" pasty in Cornwall - and when William Grimes, New York Times food critic, cursed and likened them to a doorstop she burnt the American flag!

Once again we found Ann's little pasty shop, glowing like a bright yellow beacon in the quiet residential street. Rumour has it that at peak times up to 500 pasties a day are made and find their way out of the converted garage at the back of the house.

The traditional pasty contains just four ingredients: chopped beef (usually a cheap cut such as chuck or skirt), potatoes, onions, and swede (known in Cornwall as turnip). The vegetables are thinly sliced and the filling is always added to the pasty raw, never pre-cooked. The meat and vegetables are layered and seasoned with nothing more than salt and black pepper. The edges of the pastry are then taken up and sealed together with a series of twisting movements - the 'crimp'.

We ordered two medium pasties and hurried accross the road to the benches in the playing field to hungrily devour them. The pasties are so delicious I could cry. The pastry is golden and crispy on the outside, meltingly soft on the inside where the juices from the perfectly steamed meat and vegetables have soaked in. The chunks of beef are tender and the swede - sorry, turnip – adds a delicious sweetness. You can taste each element individually but what makes these pasties so good is the generous seasoning of freshly ground black pepper.

Ann’s pasties are without doubt the best in Cornwall and therefore, by definition, in the whole world.

Ann's Pasties
Sunny Corner, Beacon Terrace, The Lizard, TR12 7PB

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

Henry's Campsite and The Lizard

2010-07-18T16:32:00.022+01:00

Full of good food and good times it was time to leave Padstow for The Lizard Peninsular. Next stop was Henry's Campsite and again it wasn't entirely a coincidence that our destination was the location of what we hoped would be some more great food experiences.

This is not strictly a food post, but I make no apologies for that. It is more a dedication to a very special part of the world and what is now my favourite campsite ever.

The Lizard Peninsular juts out at the very bottom of the South West of England. It is definitely not a place you drive through; it is rather a journey’s end, a destination. Designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, much of The Lizard is owned and managed by the National Trust. It is unique, unspoiled and stunningly beautiful; home to many of Britain’s rarest plants and wildlife, quaint harbours, fishing villages, rugged cliffs and beautiful coves.

Kynance Cove is one of the most picturesque with its brilliant turqouise water, white sand, headlands, caves and unexpected views.

Cadgwith Cove is an impossibly quaint village where you can buy fresh fish straight from the local fleet of fishing boats.

We stayed at Henry's Campsite for 4 blissful nights. It is idylic and magical - although I suspect it may be the case that you either "get" Henry's, or you don't. The fabulous weather probably helped, but we just got a feeling as soon as we arrived here that this is a very special place indeed.

The site is conveniently nestled right at the bottom of the peninsular in the Lizard Village (the southern most village in mainland Britain). It is literally within a minutes walk of the village green, shops and pubs, yet it is very tranquil and feels like a remote, secret hideaway. It is so quiet you can hear the waves crashing on the shore way below the cliffs and there is no light pollution so the night sky is bright with stars.

The main camping field is a quirky labyrinth of secluded pitches, laid out in separate bays and surrounded by amazing traditional Cornish stone walls and standing stones, most with panoramic sea views.

Henry's is more like a wild garden than a campsite. There is a profusion of colour: pretty native plants (grasses, flowers such as Campion & Foxgloves, trees and shrubs) grow amongst the stone walls and more unusual sub-tropical species give added interest. Flags, art and sculpture are everywhere and you can tell that a lot of hard work has gone into making this site what it is.

Although it is not a working farm, chickens have the run of the site and there are also pens of ducks and pigs.

Jo makes fresh scones every day and you can buy lovely hot coffee and even big jugs of cider.

The slightly ramshackle old farm buildings and higgledy-piggeldy unisex toilet facilities may not be to everyone's liking, but for me it all adds to the charm. If you like immaculate, shiny facilities you will be disappointed but they are generally kept clean and are more than adequate.

More to the point, the amenities are rendered largely irrelevant when faced with somewhere as amazing as this. More than anything Henry's is rich with a sense of place and somehow a certain integrity. Everything just feels right.

There are places you stumble upon every so often that stick in your memory and your consciousness. They are all too rare, but Henry's is definitely one of them. Places like this restore your faith in human nature, in life.

I left a piece of my heart at Henry's, but I know I'll be back for it soon.

You can keep the Maldives or the Caribbean, this is my slice of paradise. Just don't all rush down there because I want it to remain just the way it is.

Henry's Campsite
The Lizard, Helston, Cornwall, TR12 7NX

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

The Outlaw

2010-07-15T18:18:00.016+01:00

Thursday morning dawned wet and windy but we were determined to venture out. We eventually decided to take a trip aboard the passenger ferry over the Camel estuary to Rock, motivated by the prospect of lunch at Nathan Outlaw's Seafood and Grill.

Outlaw runs two restaurants, both located in the St Enodoc Hotel in Rock. The Seafood and Grill provides a more casual dining experience, compared to his main fine dining restaurant - Restaurant Nathan Outlaw.

Originally a graduate of Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant, Outlaw has become more of a household name after two appearances on Great British Menu. His previous establishments have held Michelin stars but a recent re-location from Fowey means he doesn't currently hold any. It can only be a matter of time.

Overlooking the Camel estuary, the Seafood and Grill is the perfect place for a relaxing lunch. However as the mist descended and the rain came down there was no chance of drinks on the terrace, or of us making the most of the magnificent views through the glass frontage. Still, inside the restaurant is very pleasant; modern, light and airy. We were slightly bedraggled after a short walk from the ferry landing and maybe lowered the tone somewhat, but received a friendly welcome and were soon seated by the huge windows.

Outlaw’s menus are driven by locally caught fresh seafood and the best seasonal produce that is available. The menu at the Seafood and Grill is short but perfectly showcases his amazing ingredients.

My starter was hand dived scallops with broad beans and ham hock dressing. Perfectly cooked, the soft scallop contrasted beautifully with the crispy, salty flakes of ham hock and fresh young beans. It was a delightful combination and easily the best scallops I have eaten in a long time.

Dave chose the Cornish duck leg salad with hazelnuts and boiled duck egg. There is something delightful about a soft oozy duck egg; it looked and tasted amazing.

For main I had the whole grilled lemon sole with brown shrimps, sea purslane and new potatoes. The delicately flavoured fish was cooked to translucent perfection and the purslane gave a beautiful, natural salty back note. I guess its use wholly encapsulates what Nathan Outlaw is about.

From the specials board Dave opted for the Monkfish tail with peas, clams and samphire. He also had a side of very buttery new potatoes, commenting that The Outlaw isn't shy of the butter.

We were fairly full and so shared an Elderflower cream with English raspberries for desert. It was light and delicate with the elderflower providing an enchanting floral note.

Dave followed all of this with a coffee and petit fours.

Service was friendly & proficient without being at all overbearing.

At £83.88 it wasn’t one of the cheapest lunches we’ve ever had, but we felt that the food itself was more than reasonably priced. It was all the little “extras” that added up; a couple of drinks, the fact that a bottle of still water was charged at £3.50 and the 10% service charge which was automatically added to the bill. However I’d more than happily pay for it again. The straightforward style and perfectly executed dishes certainly impressed. The food was top class throughout; it was hard to find any fault at all with the dishes and his flavour combinations were exceptional without being over complicated.

I guess you get what you pay for and, unlike the sun, Outlaw’s class shone out.

Nathan Outlaw Seafood and Grill
St. Enodoc Hotel, Rock, Cornwall, PL27 6LA, UK

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

The Cornish Arms, St. Merryn

2010-07-14T19:38:00.012+01:00

Possibly the newest destination on the north Cornwall foodie map is Rick Stein's latest enterprise, this time a partnership with St. Austell Brewery with whom he has taken out a 15-year tenancy on The Cornish Arms in St. Merryn. Located just a couple of miles outside Padstow on a beautiful stretch of the north Cornwall coast, The Cornish Arms is a very quaint, picturesque pub and looks the perfect place to stop for a pub lunch, dinner or just an ale or two.

Apparently concern was expressed by the locals when Stein took over the pub last year, but rather than transform their village local into a modern and expensive gastro pub he seems to have succeeded in his aim of maintaining a community atmosphere and the feel of a traditional pub, which at the same time serves excellent pub food.

The inside it is spacious and welcoming. Bare chunky wooden tables dominate the main dining space and big glass doors at the bottom open onto a huge terrace with picnic tables. There are also a couple of smaller rooms and alcoves, one with a TV, and further tables and seating. There is also a lovely area to sit out at the front, overlooking the village church. At the time of our visit a massive marquee had been erected in the garden housing a big screen, bar and table football for the world cup.

As you would expect the bar offers the full range of 4 St. Austell Ales: Tribute, Tinners, HSD and Proper Job. We ordered a pint of Proper Job and managed to grab a seat at one of the few free tables. The ale was well kept and served with a slight head, a feature appreciated by us northerners.

The menu is relatively short and comprises of classic British pub grub, this is complimented by a blackboard menu with a handful of specials. Once you've found a seat and made your selection you order your food at the bar.

For starters I went with the mussels and was soon brought a big bowl for the empty shells, a spoon for the sauce and a bowl of hot water with lemon; a good start. When the mussels arrived each shell contained a sweet, meaty morsel and none remained closed. If I am honest there was a little too much diced onion but it was otherwise tasty and the mussels clearly very fresh and well cooked. The bread was delicious too, spread with soft Cornish butter it made a delicious vehicle for mopping up the remnants of the creamy sauce .

The crab Salad that Dave ordered arrived with a generous portion of picked white crab meat, a splodge of deep yellow, wobbly home made mayo and rustic foccacia bread; it certainly looked the part. The simplicity of the dish made the most of the fresh crab and it was delicious.

For my main course I chose ham, eggs and chips; a slice of ham covered the plate and the hot crispy chips were divine dipped into the perfect egg yolks. I felt obliged to have at least one of my five a day and also ordered a side dish of green salad, it would have benefited from a slick of dressing but the leaves were fresh.

Dave had the curry - Mumrez Khan’s lamb & spinach Kharahi curry. Described as "hot and spicy" on the menu it really had to live up to this assertion, and it did. It had a great depth of flavour and definitely packed a bit of a punch. The curry was served with fluffy rice and a couple of nice crisp poppadoms.

This is just the sort of food I want to eat over a couple of pints after a days walking; no nonsense, simple but excellent quality pub grub. It beats most other pubs I've eaten at hands down.

It seems that these days good food is an ever more important part of many a pub's success and here it works well. I really hope the locals appreciate this place as much as we did; if this was my local I wouldn't be able to keep away. We hear about pubs closing all the time, maybe if they took a steer from places like this more pubs would thrive as a viable and vital part of community life.

The Cornish Arms
Churchtown, St Merryn, Padstow, PL28 8ND

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

A cream tea at Prideaux Place

2010-07-12T22:23:00.009+01:00

Any self respecting visitor to Cornwall needs to sample at least one traditional cream tea. To this end, after pottering around and an admittedly less than strenuous walk along Padstow beach, we strolled to the top of town to Prideaux Place - a beautiful Elizabethan manor house which has been the home of the Prideaux-Brune family since the 16th century. Prideaux Place offers a peaceful haven just minutes from the bustle of Padstow, but more importantly serves cream teas out on the terrace.

We ordered one apiece and were warned that each cream tea was served with two large scones. That was lucky as we hadn't had any lunch and it was after 3pm.

Expectations duly heightened, we were not disappointed. Our cream teas arrived, complete with 2 large soft fresh scones - slightly warm - a pot of deliciously fruity local strawberry jam and a very generous portion of Rodda’s clotted cream. There was also a huge pot of tea per person.

Of course the question is, should the scone first be spread with strawberry jam and then topped with a spoonful of the clotted cream, or vice versa? I believe the difference may lie in whether it is a Devonian or Cornish cream tea but ultimately the choice comes down to personal taste and I am not sure that either method is better or more acceptable than the other. Besides, we all opted for the jam followed by cream method.

The challenge then is to perfectly judge the application of jam and cream, ensuring that equal amounts can be dolloped on to each scone. It wouldn't do to be left with scone and no adornments. The size of the scone, jam and cream made it tricky to eat but we persisted and piled on as much as was possible.

It was the perfect combination of quality and quantity and we declared it one of the best cream teas we've ever had!

Prideaux Place
Padstow, Cornwall, PL28 8RP

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

Stein's Fish & chips

2010-07-09T15:40:00.008+01:00

A holiday in Cornwall would not be complete without at least a couple of fish 'n' chip suppers. There is nothing better after a day out in the fresh sea air and few can rival those served up at Rick Stein's fish & chip shop in Padstow. Besides which, a holiday in "Padstein" would not be complete without a visit to at least one of Stein's many ventures! So upon arrival it was up with the tent and straight down to the harbour for tea.

Firstly let's get the issue of the queues out of the way. Padstow is busy and it is probable that at peak times you will have to queue at Stein's; accept this as a fact and tell yourself it will be worth it (I assure you it is).

You can choose to eat in the white-tiled restaurant, sat at the long wooden communal benches, or you can grab a takeaway to eat on the quay side. Watch out for the seagulls though; they’re bullies and will take off with the whole box given half a chance.

There is an amazing selection of spankingly fresh fish on offer - from the usual suspects such as cod, haddock and plaice to species more unfamiliar to the fish fryer such as mackerel, squid, skate, sea bream, monkfish and lemon sole. You can choose to have it grilled, fried or more traditionally battered and deep fried in beef dripping.

This time we went for battered Hake, as a more sustainable alternative to cod or haddock. Hake is a deep-sea fish from the cod family but with a more subtle flavour than that of its relative. It is quite a mild fish, with a white flaky texture. The batter was amazingly crunchy and the fish was good, although for some reason I found the texture a little "woolly".

On a second visit later in the week I went for the scampi and Dave had battered monkfish. Maybe my expectations were too high and I was slightly disappointed with what seemed to be standard, bought in breaded scampi. I wanted proper homemade battered scampi, made with big chunky langoustine tails but it wasn't to be. Don't get me wrong the scampi was okay, but nothing exceptional. The monkfish on the other hand was a revelation; the big meaty chunks of fish worked exceptionally well encased in crisp batter.

The fish is always served with some of the most gloriously hot and crispy chips I have ever eaten and they are presented together in a neat box with a wedge of lemon and spring of parsley. They are never soggy or overly greasy and taste divine, the flavour only dripping can bring. All the usual trimmings are available too - mushy peas, homemade tartar sauce, and even aioli and curry sauce. We opted for some pleasingly green mush peas and a portion of tartare sauce. The tartar sauce is rich and creamy. It is good - definitely beating anything that comes in a sachet - but could do with a little more piquancy to contrast with the fried food. It doesn't have that essential sharpness to cut through the richness and therefore I feel the point is somewhat lost.

We washed our meals down with a pint of Chalky's Bark, a beer created by the Sharp's brewery over the estuary in Rock in honour of Rick's late dog. At 4.5% and lightly flavoured with fresh ginger, it's very refreshing and makes a perfect accompaniment to fish and chips.

Stein’s fish and chip shop is definitely worth more than just a look-in, especially if you can't get in at his restaurant which is always booked up months in advance. As a northern lass I take my fish and chips seriously and in my opinion, despite the occasional minor gripe, they dish up an outstanding portion at Stein's.

Stein's Fish & chips
South Quay, Padstow, Cornwall

This post forms part of a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

Gastro Camp-a-rama; Cornwall, 2010

2010-07-09T15:17:00.010+01:00

For me sampling the local cuisine is the highlight of any trip away, but the South West of England, in particular, presents exceptional opportunities for a gastronomic holiday experience. Tuck into fish ‘n’ chips, a proper pasty, enjoy a traditional clotted cream tea or local ice cream and sample the many ales, ciders and wines on offer. From the freshest seafood straight off the local day boats to the very best meat, cheese, fruit and veg - the South West has it all. It's also a celebrity chef heaven, if that's your bag (most famously Rick Stein, Jamie Oliver & Hugh Fearnly-Whittingstall have establishments here).
All this keeps us going back for more and this year was no exception; we have just returned from an amazing trip to Cornwall.

And what better way to sample the delights of a region than camping? Of course choice of campsite is key; as the saying goes, location is everything and you really can't get much better than Dennis Cove in Padstow.

Located right on the edge of town, just off the Camel Trial, it is within easy walking distance of the foodie wonders of Padstow (crucially thereby avoiding the parking pandemonium in Padstow itself). This site is an old favourite of ours - picturesque, well maintained & quiet. On this stretch of north Cornwall coast there are more great restaurants and gourmet destinations than you can hope to eat at in one visit, so once again we based ourselves here for 4 nights to make the most of the areas gastronomic delights.

This post is the first in a series about our 2010 gastro camping trip in Cornwall.

First stop Stein's fish & chips…

Taste of London

2010-06-26T12:17:00.012+01:00

Last weekend we attended the brilliant Taste of London Festival, held in Regent's Park.

Now in its seventh year, the event brings together some of the capital's best restaurants, each offering a limited menu of 3 or 4 sample sized signature dishes. Described as an open air "pop-up" restaurant festival, it's a great concept that showcases some of the best food that London has to offer. Brought together in one location, Taste of London provides a great opportunity to try the cuisine from some of the top restaurants in the city.

About 40 establishments took part, the full list of whom can be found on the website, but to name-drop a few: Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill (Richard Corrigan) Launceston place (Trisatn Welch), The Cinnamon Club ( Vivek Singh), Benares (Atul Kochhar), Le Gavroche (Michel Roux Jr.), Maze and York & Albany (both part of Gordon Ramsay's empire), Odette's (Bryn Williams), Rhodes Twenty Four (Gary Rhodes), the eponymous Theo Randall at the Intercontinental & Tom's Kitchen (Tom Aiken).

The festival currency is "Crowns" (£1 = 2 Crowns) and you exchange these for your chosen dishes. The portions are deliberately small to allow you to graze and try more than just a couple of dishes. The average dish was priced at 9 Crowns (£4.50). Some 'Icon' dishes were 16 Crowns and above - these were supposed to reflect a chef's most inventive cooking and finest ingredients. For example, Le Gavroche was serving Lobster cocktail with summer truffles and tomato jelly served in an engraved Le Gavroche glass (40 Crowns).

Spread over 4 days, we attended the Saturday evening session. What follows is a synopsis of the amazing food we tasted.

Having studied the menus before hand, on arrival we made a bee line for Launceston place. As we arrived a suckling pig on a spit was being paraded around the stand, to much shouting and chanting. Head Chef Tristan Welch and his sous chef Steve Groves (winner of the BBC’s Masterchef: The Professionals 2009) were clearly in high spirits and very obliging in posing for a picture with said piglet.

First we wanted to try the Goose Egg and Chips (as seen on the Great British Menu); deliciously thin and crispy hot chips smothered in a light as air goose egg sauce. The flavour of the sauce was quite subtle but it was interesting and an enjoyable combination.

We followed that with the Spit Roast Old Spot Suckling Pig and Black Summer Truffles which was amazing. Encased in a brioche bun, the juicy suckling pig was topped with snaps of crackling and wafer thin slices of truffle; a mean pork sandwich!

Next we visited the Salt Yard for Char-grilled Beef Bavette with Salsa Verde and Escalivada. Bavette is popular in France but much underused here. It's basically a well-trimmed skirt or flank steak and considered one of the cheaper cuts of meat. It really was full of flavour, well cooked and more tender than I expected. The escalivada (grilled vegetables seasoned with olive oil and salt, and sometimes with garlic as well) was slightly bland and we both thought a little disappointing.

On to Odette's where we sampled Braised Welsh Pork Cheek with Spiced Pineapple. The Asian flavours in the sweet pineapple sauce complemented the soft pork cheek and this was another winner.

Paul Merret was cooking in the Action against Hunger pop-up. We spotted his Homemade Scotch egg on a salad of pea shoots, green beans and roasted beetroot with grain mustard dressing and had to try it.

The scotch egg was about as good as they get; the coating was really crisp but the yolk inside still managed to retain a slight gooeyness. At only 6 Crowns it was a delightful dish, one of my favourites, and all the better as the proceeds went to charity.

The Cinnamon Club's spice crusted bream, masala mash and tomato lemon sauce was a revelation and we agreed it was probably the dish of the evening. The fish was expertly cooked - crisp skin on the outside and yet still tender within and the perfectly balanced use of spices in the mash truly showed the dish off. One of the few Indian restaurants to hold a Michelin star, it is easy to see why.We felt it was time for a drink so headed to the Young's Brewery stand where we enjoyed a pint of draught ale in the bar.

From there we moved on to Bentley's Oyster Bar and Grill where we couldn't resist the smell of Traditional fish and chips. We weren't disappointed; served in a cardboard cone the fish was perfectly cooked in a crisp better along with some golden chips and mushy peas.

Next was Busaba Eathai (a chain of quality Thai restaurants) for the Char grilled duck in tamarind sauce with Chinese Broccoli; the sour tamarind sauce and fresh greens complimenting the rich duck perfectly.

A second beer stop then we moved on to another favorite from Trishna; coastal guinea fowl curry with a pao bread roll had great depth of flavour and was really quite spicy.

Michel Roux Jr. was in-situ at the two Michelin starred Le Gavroche and we had the Daube de beouf a la Nicoise (braised beef with olives and soft polenta). I didn't think this dish was "pretty as a picture" but it certainly tasted great and the meat was melt in the mouth tender.

It was time for desert so we headed to Asia de Cuba where Dave ordered the Mexican Doughnuts with Butterscotch sauce. They were apparently so moreish that I wasn't allowed to share any!

Instead I had the Alphonso mango rice pudding with pistachio's and sweet chilli from Trishna. The deliciously sweet mango flavored rice was elevated above the norm with an after kick of hot chilli.

There were also talks and live demonstrations in the Taste Theatre, this year featuring Heston Blumenthal and Giorgio Locatelli. Add to that a busy line up of exhibitors - the best suppliers & producers with top-notch ingredients & quality food and drink from Britain and around the world - and this event is pretty much foodie heaven.

Premium tickets to the event cost £37 each, this included entry to the event and £20 worth of Crowns. We quickly spent these and ended up buying another £40 worth, so all in all we managed to polish off £80 of food between us. Not a cheap night, but we left having had a great time, sampled some exceptional food, spotted some famous faces and with a long list of restaurants we'd like to explore further.

Princess Louise

2010-06-26T11:53:00.005+01:00

After the disappointment of the football we were in need of some more liquid refreshment and so, in the name of drowning our sorrows, we headed to the Princess Louise.

Built in 1872 and named after Queen Victoria's fourth daughter, the Princess Louise is one of London's most beautiful and historic pubs. Its classic Victorian interior has been gloriously preserved; from the high and heavily ornate plastered ceiling, flamboyantly decorative tiles, huge dark carved wooden bar and elaborate cut glass and mirrors. It is a Grade II listed pub and is also on CAMRA's National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors.

During 2007 the pub went through a comprehensive restoration which saw the reinstatement of the wood and etched glass partitions, creating the sort of subdivided drinking areas common to the popular and lavish nineteenth century "gin palaces". It has created a wonderfully confusing warren of snugs and alcoves, each with its own access to the central island bar.

The pub is now owned by Sam Smiths, a notable if rather eccentric independent brewery from Tadcaster, North Yorkshire. Common to all their pubs, the Princess Louise sells only Sam Smiths branded drinks. Their own range of lagers, ales and ciders is reasonably comprehensive and good quality, some available on draught and some only bottled. Their Old Brewery bitter is a great pint when on form and at £1.99 is staggering value, even if this wasn't Central London.

The location and unassuming exterior means it would be easy to pass by the Princess Louise, but if you are in London it is definitely worth a detour for a lovely pint of traditional ale in amazing surroundings.

Princess Louise
208 High Holborn, Holborn, London, WC1V 7BW

Nearest Tube: Holborn

Canteen; Spitalfields, London

2010-06-21T18:52:00.022+01:00

You could be forgiven if the term "canteen" conjures up bad memories of school dinners or second rate lunches served up in a work cafeteria, but this image couldn't be further from the truth here. Canteen does not pretend to offer fine dining, but does unapologetically offer a menu of solid British classics. It is unpretentious, carefully sourced and well cooked food at reasonable prices.

Canteen serves a casual all day menu from breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. Nostalgia reigns and the menu pays homage to homely British grub; pies, stews and roasts (which change daily), macaroni cheese, Arbroath smokies, devilled kidneys and the good old fish finger sandwich all feature. The dishes are simple favourites, but all homemade and cooked to order using free range, additive free and seasonal produce.

Located in the re-developed Old Spitalfileds Market, inside the restaurant is surprisingly modern and minimalist; something of a cross between a functional transport caff and Wagamamas. There are communal wooden bench tables but also booth seating, along with a large covered outdoor dining area. The kitchen is open and you can see the chefs at work.

We visited for an early dinner last Friday whilst in London; it was perfect for a quick, informal yet good quality meal before the football.

On arrival we were seated in one of the booths by the huge glass windows overlooking the market. We ordered drinks - a fresh lemonade and an "English Rose" (a refreshingly different long mixer of cranberry, apple and rose) - which arrived promptly and our food order was taken by the friendly waiter.

We decided to share a starter (unusually, even I already had one eye on the tempting deserts) and so we ordered the Potted duck with piccalilli and toast. The duck was smooth and tasty and the toast to spread ratio was spot on. If I am being picky, for me the piccalilli was slightly too sweet and I felt that the dish would have benefited from it being a bit sharper, just to offset the rich meat. But a good start all the same.

For mains I went for the roast free range chicken, garlic mayonnaise and chips. Available as leg and thigh or wing and breast meat, I chose the former and it was deliciously succulent with beautiful crispy skin. The chips were a cross between french fries and thicker chip shop style chips, with crunchy edges - perfect dipped in the pungent garlic mayo. This was really simple cooking but, even so, utterly heavenly.

Dave had the daily roast, today it was pork and served with roast potatoes, spring greens and gravy and apple sauce. The pork was tender and full of flavour, topped with crispy pork crackling and tasty gravy.

The deserts sounded good enough to entice me away from the Neal's Yard cheese and I finished with Blackcurrant jelly, ice cream and shortbread. The jelly wasn't completely clear but was deliciously sharp and loaded with blackcurrant flavour. Dave opted for the classic Treacle tart with clotted cream; great comfort food.

Canteen's no-nonsense traditional menu has brought good British cooking back to the capital's high streets and it didn't disappoint. Unlike the England football team who let the side down with a deeply unsatisfactory 0-0 bore draw with Algeria. Maybe they are missing their food.

Canteen
2 Crispin Place, Spitalfields, London, E1 6DW

Nearest tube - Liverpool St.

Also branches in Baker St, Canary Wharfe & Royal Festival Hall

Good things come to those who wait: British Asparagus

2010-06-09T18:52:00.013+01:00

I know you can buy asparagus all year round these days, but to be honest I’d sooner poke myself in the eye with it than eat the sad excuse for the stuff imported from Spain, Thailand or Peru that's on offer year round in the supermarkets! Taste it and you’ll seriously wonder what the fuss is all about, only those with a fertile imagination could possibly identify any real flavour in it. For proper asparagus, in all its glory, you have to hold out for the British asparagus season... and until then I'd rather go without.

So the season is long awaited but also desperately short; traditionally beginning on 1st May it runs for around seven to eight delicious asparagus-filled weeks, until the end of June. For me the shortness of the season only serves to heighten both my anticipation and enjoyment of it and I can happily devour it three times a week in something resembling an asparagus feeding frenzy.

We bought our first asparagus of the season on May bank holiday weekend at The Dales Festival of Food in Leyburn. Grown by the Spilman's at Pasture Lane Asparagus, it is some of the best around and we indulged in 2 big bundles of the unmistakable thick, purple tipped spears. Britain's climate means the plant matures more slowly than it does in warmer climes and this helps to develop the uniquely delicate flavour that is so prized by asparagus lovers. Proper British asparagus has an amazingly sweet, fresh grassy taste, similar to peas - only better.
We enjoyed it simply steamed and dipped soilder-style into soft boiled duck eggs, accompanied by some air dried ham and brown bread and butter. This must be what angels eat.

Simple is best where asparagus is concerned. I love it adorned with hollandaise sauce or even just butter and a spritz of lemon. It is also great quickly griddled on the BBQ, even better served with a "fondue" of Brie or Camembert (wrap a whole cheese in a couple of layers of foil and stick it over the coals until it melts, then dip said asparagus into the molten gooey cheese!).

Another favourite is an adaptaion of Jamie Oliver's recipe for Beautiful Courgette Carbonara. Probably not completely authentic, but it is indeed beautiful and only improved by the substitution of asparagus for the courgette.

And yes, eat too much and asparagus can make your wee smell funny. It can even turn it green. The science-y bit says that this is because of sulphur-containing amino acids in the spears that break down during digestion. I won’t be giving that a second thought though as I tuck into yet another bundle of the first taste of summer. Get your fill before it's gone for another year.

Pasture Lane Asparagus
Richard & Sally Spilman Lodge Farm, Helperby, York

Jamie's Italian, Leeds

2010-05-20T18:38:00.033+01:00

Having eaten at Fifteen in Cornwall a couple of years ago, and been thoroughly impressed with the whole Jamie Oliver experience, I was keen to try out Jamie's Italian that has just opened in Leeds.

Now, with 10 branches in cities such as London Bath, Oxford, Cardiff, Reading, Bristol & Brighton, Jamie's Italian is essentially a celebrity endorsed high street chain restaurant. Love him or hate him, for my part I am generally a fan of what Jamie Oliver is trying to achieve. This is also his first foray into the north of England and I think it will benefit the city so I am really keen for it to live up the hype and succeed.

The restaurant is housed in an old bank on Park Row and on entering I was immediately impressed with the way it has been sympathetically converted. The old ceiling has been left in situ and is a great feature; rather ripping out the heart of the building many of the original features have been left and incorporated into the new more industrial, modern design.

We arrived around 6pm on a Wednesday evening, early enough to avoid the long queues we'd heard a lot about during opening week, and we walked straight in. The staff on the reception desk consulted the computerised seating plan, which confirmed that there were tables available, and we were promptly shown upstairs. Both floors are dominated by large open kitchens where you can watch the staff at work; the one upstairs is adorned with legs of ham and charcuterie which makes a great visual focal point.

Jamie's Italian is designed to be a neighbourhood restaurant, accessible to all. The atmosphere definitely promotes this; there is a comfortable, laid back feel. Still, there is a vibrant buzz about the place too. I like the large spacious layout and the huge windows lined with dining booths running the length of the upstairs. It's also good to hear some decent music in a restaurant; wholly subjective of course, but a bit of indie pop is a welcome addition in my eyes.

The young team add to the contemporary vibe and were really enthusiastic and friendly, whilst still managing to be efficient and knowledgeable.

The menu is definitely Jamie's take on Italian food; it probably isn't for the traditionalist. I doubt Lamb chop lollipops, char grilled chop steak beef burger or Fish in a Bag make an appearance on many authentic Italian menus, in name at least, but as a concept it works and makes a refreshing change to the usual suspects on Italian menus.

I had to go for one of the impressive looking antipasti starters that were flying out of the kitchen, so chose the Seasonal Meat Antipasti Plank. The wooden plank duly arrived and was propped theatrically on a couple of tins of tomatoes. It consisted of 4 different types of cured meat, all good quality and delicious: Tuscan fennel salami, pistachio mortadella, San Daniele prosciutto and Schiacciata piccante. There was also a ball of buffalo mozzarella and a slice of pecorino topped with chilli jam. It was accompanied by a selection of pickles such as a green pickled chilli, green and black olives and a caper berry, along with a coleslaw of root veg with a lemon and mint dressing.

I also ordered the selection of Italian breads, some of which was made on site, the rest in Jamie's bakery. It included ciabatta, focaccia, sourdough, grissini sticks and 'snappy music bread’ (wafer thin shards of crisp bread). We were also delivered some extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar in a little saucer to dip the bread in. Together they made a great casual starter.

Dave's starter was Sausage Pappardelle. The wide crinkly ribbons of homemade pasta were cooked al dente and came with a sauce of slow cooked Italian sausage, tomatoes and red wine. It was a savoury, meaty gravy rather than the more usual sweet tomato flavor you expect from a ragù, but was rich and delicious.

For mains I chose the Rose Veal Parmigiana; a pan fried tender veal chop encased in a crisp breadcrumb coating and served with a tomato sauce. The veal was tasty and tender, the sauce was gutsy; plum tomatoes laced with whole slivers of garlic and a chili kick. The only minor problem was the fact that the veal was served on top of the wet sauce which left the bottom very soggy. Dave opted for the Chicken cooked under a brick and was served a juicy free-range chicken halved, boned, marinated and then char grilled and served with a warm tomato, olive, chilli and caper sauce.

We accompanied our mains with sides of Radicchio, Rocket and Parmesan Salad and Crispy Polenta chips with rosemary salt and parmesan (yes, you have to order sides separately). The salad was fresh, nicely dressed and tasty. The polenta was a revelation – chunks rather than chips, but they were deliciously crunchy on the outside with soft polenta inside.

This is rustic, simple food but well made with good seasonal ingredients, sourced both locally and in Italy. I was amazed by the amount of flavour packed into all the dishes.

With the generous portions we were too full and had to skip desert. The bill came to just over £60, including a couple of rounds of chilled beers, and although not cheap we felt that overall this represented good value for a mid-range restaurant of this quality.

Jamie's Italian certainly didn't disappoint; it's a great addition to the Leeds restaurant scene. Let's hope he can maintain standards and cement his place offering great quality Italian food on the high street.

35 Park Row, Leeds, LS1 5JL

http://www.jamieoliver.com/italian

Held to Ramsons

2010-04-26T23:01:00.024+01:00

Ramsons, probably better known as wild garlic (or Allium Ursinum), is an edible plant species native to the UK. What's more it is bang in season right now. It grows abundantly in moist, wooded, shaded areas and is easily identifiable by its unmistakable pungent garlicky smell and long vibrant green leaves. It carpets British woodlands throughout spring and towards the end of the season it bursts into bloom with beautiful delicate white flowers.

Foraging for wild garlic is straight forward, in fact it is so abundant that the term "foraging" really constitutes an embellishment. There isn't a need to "forage" at all; if you're out and about in the English countryside at this time of year it's almost impossible to miss. Avoid lily-of-the-valley; whilst it looks similar it is toxic, but easily distinguished from ramsons by the lack of garlic smell. Also be wary of ramsons leaves that are growing within leg-cocking range of passing dogs! You should avoid climbing fences, trampling wild flowers and definitely don't dig up the bulbs, but with the application of a little common sense and restraint there really shouldn't be a problem - wild garlic thrives and spreads rapidly so there is no issue to helping yourself.

Unlike its domestic equivalent, wild garlic is prized for its leaves rather than its bulb. The bulbs are edible, as are the flowers which make a pretty garnish, but are much smaller with no separate cloves. The leaves are very similar in taste to domestic garlic, although milder & reather more understated - despite the suggestion of pungency hinted at by the strong smell.

Ramsons have many culinary uses: the leaves are delicious raw or cooked and work well in salads, soups and stews. The leaves are wonderful cooked in an omlette or risotto. I can't wait to try this rabbit and wild garlic risotto from Gordon Ramsay at some point.

However, I was a bit short on time here so opted to make some wild garlic pesto. It will also keep in the fridge for a good few weeks.

Start with 100g freshly picked wild garlic leaves. Discard any coarse stalks, damaged leaves or any stray pieces of grass, but you don’t really need to wash it (unless you’ve picked it from road side verges or are unfortunate enough to have been afflicted with the modern day obsession with "germs"). Throw the leaves into a blender with 50g pine nuts & 150 ml rapeseed oil and blitz for about a minute until everything is finely chopped. Of course you can do this in a pestle and mortar if you prefer. Finally stir in 50-60g finely grated mature hard cheese (I used parmesan, as it was what I had to hand, but something like Quick’s goats cheese would make a great alternative and be more in keeping with the English theme) & ½ - 1 teaspoon sea salt

Fill into clean sterilised jars leaving a space at the top. Press it all down firmly with the back of a spoon to remove any pockets of air (trapped air can cause the pesto to go off). Swirl another 50ml of oil over the top of the pesto to seal the surface. When you come to use the pesto, stir it well before spooning out. Make sure the surface of any pesto remaining in the jar is completely covered with oil before you return to the fridge (this is critical if it is to keep well).

The end result is lurid green and the amazingly fresh, garlicky taste will perk up any number of dishes. I've served it dolloped onto pork chops and with bacon lardons for a pesto pasta, but it could equally be swirled into mashed potato or smeared onto pizza or a baguette for a quick garlic bread.

The Fleece, Addingham

2010-04-19T19:45:00.009+01:00

The Fleece in the village of Addingham, near Ilkley, is a regular haunt of ours. I generally tend to dislike the term "gastro pub" but I guess that best describes what they do; it's a fully functioning local village pub that serves great pub food. I feel that this in itself shouldn't set it aside from any other pub in the country, but unfortunately it does.

From the outside it’s a handsome 17th Century coaching inn, inside a very traditional pub with low ceilings, Yorkshire stone flagged floors, log fires and an eclectic mix of old furniture, paintings and paraphernalia. It is relaxed and informal yet can get very busy, but at least this means that there is always a vibrant atmosphere.

More significant than the comfortable surroundings though are their attempts at resurrecting Yorkshire's respectable tradition of honest food and good ale. There are always local beers on tap - usually Black Sheep, Timothy Taylor’s Landlord, Tetley’s Cask and Copper Dragon’s Golden Pippin. There is a decent wine list and they stock a range of delicious Frobisher's fruit juice.

There is also a great dedication to locally sourced food– meat from the nearby Bolton Abbey estate and local seafood and veggies abound. There is even an allotment out the back.
There are no printed menus; it's all chalked up on the blackboards. There is an ever changing seasonal specials board, loaded with dishes such as warm salad of crispy belly pork, Chorizo Sausage & Black pudding, calves liver and confit duck leg with spiced red cabbage. There is always a good range of steaks and plenty of fish options too – usually Mussels (when in season) & dishes like Cornish whole sea bass stuffed with spinach and chorizo or seared Islay king scallops with black pudding.

Offered alongside the specials is a more traditional pub menu including classics such as meat and potato pie, jumbo Whitby haddock and chips, a classic ploughman's, braised Wharfedale lamb shank, fish pie, roast belly of pork with mustard glaze, bangers and mash, shepherd's pie and half roast organic chicken.

This visit we both opted for a fishy starter. Dave's crab puff pastry roulade with butter sauce and tomato salad sounded interesting, his conclusion was that, although delicious, it maybe didn't quite showcase the fresh crab to its full extent. My Keralan spiced mackerel with creme fraiche and wilted greens was delicately fragrant with warm spices, complementing the oily fish well.

For mains we went for the Wharfedale hand carved sirloin for 2. Served on a huge wooden board with a garnish of mushrooms, tomatoes & onion rings, bearnaise sauce and a dish of chips, this is unfussy pub food at its best. The meat was amazing; cooked medium rare, exactly as requested, juicy and flavoursome. Great fat crispy chips and the rich tarragon laden sauce were the perfect accompaniment. However the whole semi-cooked tomato felt largely superfluous and was ignored, by me at least.

This is gutsy pub food with hearty portions to match. It is rare that we eat two courses here and still have room for a pud. The Fleece meat and potato pie would satisfy even Desperate Dan, it just requires the horns. This time was no exception, the steak had us beat and we had to pass on pud.

I have heard complaints that The Fleece is expensive, in particular many seem to object to the fact that accompanying side dishes are charged as extras. However with mains priced from £9.50 for bangers and mash, even the most expensive items from the standard pub menu are less than £14, I am mystified as to why – I actually think it represents great value. Yes some of the specials are more expensive, but being realistic you would pay similar prices to those quoted above if you ate at your local Beefeater and it would be vastly inferior food! The punters are hardly being fleeced.

Admittedly service is not always consistent; like the food and surroundings it can be "rustic" and at times we have found it to be less than well organized, but this is really the only criticism I can level.

The dishes here are probably at their best when uncomplicated and not overly ambitious. I've never had a below par meal here though and will keep on returning for their solidly executed comfort pub classics.

The Fleece Inn
154 Main Street, Addingham, Ilkley, West Yorkshire, LS29 0LY

Paella on the BBQ

2010-04-18T10:47:00.017+01:00

Paella originates from the Valencian region of Spain and is cooked in a "paellera" (a wide, shallow pan with looped handles), from which the dish gets its name. It would also traditionally be cooked outside on an open wood fire. Given the glorious spring weather we've been having I decided to replicate this and put my own paellera to good use out on the barbecue.

Start by lighting the barbecue as normal. Meanwhile put a good pinch of saffron threads in a saucepan with a litre of chicken stock and bring it to a simmer. Once the flames have died down and the charcoal has a covering of grey ash, set the paella pan on the barbecue grid and heat a good slug of oil. Next add a finely chopped onion and a couple of cloves of chopped garlic and sweat them off, stirring for 5 minutes or so until softened and starting to caramelise. Then add 4 chicken thighs and once nicely browned add some sliced chorizo and a chopped red pepper. Once this is cooking sprinkle in the rice (about 300g), stirring until the grains begin to soak up the oil.

A note about the rice; the best rice for paella is bomba, a Spanish short-grain rice that is able to absorb three times its volume in liquid. When cooked, the grains remain separate and do not stick together. The rice in paella should be dry and separate when done, not creamy like risotto. Also, it isn't paella if it is made with long grain rice.

Finally add the hot stock and season, gave it a good stir.

It is a good idea at this stage to push any grains floating above the liquid back under to ensure you are not left with any raw rice at the end. Now leave the paella to cook for about 20 minutes, resist the urge to stir but rotate the pan occasionally so the bottom cooks evenly. If the liquid seems to be boiling off too quickly you may need to add a little more, so have some hot water or more stock handy.
Don't worry about the paella sticking or burning; it is authentic to have a crust or "soccaratis" (the caramelized crust of rice that sometimes sticks to the bottom of the pan) and this is the prize in a well-made paella.

It's done when the rice has absorbed all the stock and is just tender.

Remove the paella from the heat and cover the pan with foil. Leave for 5 minutes to cool slightly, then stir in plenty of chopped parsley and serve with fat wedges of lemon.

Delicioso!

Knight of the Black Pudding

2010-04-02T11:16:00.016+01:00

Good Friday's breakfast was black pudding, purchased at the Farmer's Market last weekend, and provided one of life's epiphany moments. I've been eating black pudding all my life but suddenly I realised that these were special; not only part of the history and tradition of the area I am from, but when made properly black puddings such as these are a taste sensation - a true delicacy up there with the best. Those of a more squeamish disposition would no doubt disagree, but they would be wrong and are missing out.

I'd encourage anyone to try the black puddings made by champion black pudding maker and "Knight of the Black Pudding", Andrew Holt. His business, The Real Lancashire Black Pudding Company, is based in Rossendale near Bury and their multi-award winning puds are a revelation; made using time-honoured methods, Andrew's recipe dates back to 1879. Traditional black pudding is made from pig's blood (more often than not these days it is dried blood), pork fat, onion, rusk, pearl barley, oatmeal and a blend of herbs and spices all encased in a length of intestine.

The herbs used vary from one maker to another, each recipe a closely guarded secret. In a Bury black pudding you are likely to find pennyroyal, along with thyme, marjoram, pepper and celery seed. It is the traditional "horseshoe" shape and this characteristic spicing that makes a Bury black pudding special. Pennyroyal has an interesting distinctly minty flavour, often likened to camphor, and it is easily identified in Andrew's rich, spicy pudding; it is quite subtle and harmonises completely with the other spices, yet gives a truly distinctive taste to the soft, moist sausage. There is an even distribution of barley and nuggets of pearly white fat throughout and a natural casing. I can't quite believe that blood can taste this good, but at this rate can see why vampirism may be so contagious!

The black puddings we buy in the UK are already cooked; you just need to reheat them. The traditional Lancastrian way to prepare the individual Bury type Black Pudding is to gently heat it through in water at about 80oc for about 10-15 minutes. The difficulty is that the pudding can burst out of its skin so it is important that they are not allowed to boil, hence the instruction for the relatively low temperature. The pudding is then split it down the middle, opened out on the plate and served with nothing more than salt, pepper, a slick of mustard and maybe some thickly buttered bread. That's it.

The straight "sticks" of black pudding are more usually sliced then grilled or fried - delicious severed as part of a full monty breakfast. Again gentle heat is the key as overcooking will cause them to be dry and hard.

As long as man has slaughtered animals to eat, blood sausages have been in existence and most regions of the world have their own variant of a speciality sausage based on congealed blood; drisheen from Ireland, boudin noir from France, morcilla from Spain, Biroldo from Italy & blutwurst from Germany, to name but a few. There are similar variations found throughout Asia and The Americas. They are revered the world over, so much so that in France there is an exclusive brotherhood known as the Chevalier du Gôute-Boudin - Knight of the Black Pudding. Andrew Holt was sworn into this exclusive group in 1998.

So why do many of us in the UK find the idea of eating blood from an animal that has been killed to provide us with meat so disturbing, even offensive? Most of us are carnivores and happy to consume flesh, fat and muscle (and much worse if you eat cheap sausages, dodgy burgers and kebabs), yet baulk at the prospect of eating blood. I guess it is the word and all it's gory conotations. But ultimately we were responsible for the death of that animal so surely the least we can do is pay it the basic respect of eating it all - nose to tail, everything but the squeak. We really have no excuse, especially when it tastes this good!

Black pudding deserves a more prominent place in our national cuisine. Stirred into mashed potato and eaten with a pork chop or roast chicken leg it makes a simple and tasty supper dish. It is also great added into a Lancashire hotpot or crumbled into a stew to give body and is often paired with scallops for an indulgent treat. For the more adventurous it can be incorporated into any number of imaginative dishes and there are some great recipe ideas on The Real Lancashire Black Pudding Company's website showing how versatile an ingredient it is, from black pudding lasagna to crispy won-tons!

They also do a great "chilli bomb" black pudding, the hot chilli providing a spicy flavour explosion to tingle the taste buds; amazingly good. That's for another day though, this morning it just doesn't get better than simply boiled Bury black pudding for breakfast.

New (Blue) Cheese on the Block; Stichelton

2010-03-27T12:50:00.018Z

It is described as a classic English blue cheese, but it is most definitely not Stilton.

It is in fact Stichelton, a relative newcomer to the English artisan cheese scene. It has been made since 2006 by American cheese maker Joe Schneider, in collaboration with Randolph Hodgson of Neal’s Yard Dairy, at Collinthwaite Farm on the Welbeck Estate in Nottinghamshire. It is produced from organic milk from the farm's 150 Friesian-Holstein cows.

The name Stichelton (pronounced as it is spelt, stitch-el-ton not stick-el-ton) apparently derives from an early name for the town of Stilton, as recorded in the 11th century Doomsday Book. The cheese is actually produced within the allowed PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) geographical area for Stilton and is made to what is essentially a traditional Stilton recipe. So the links with the archetypal English blue cheese are certainly more than tenuous. But crucially Stichelton is made from unpasteurised (or raw) milk and, as such, it is prevented from being called Stilton.

Evidently those Stilton producers who weren't already doing so, began using pasteurised milk after a food poisoning outbreak in 1989. The link with Stilton was unproven but it still brought to an end the use of unpasteurised milk in its production and pasteurisation, perhaps controversially, became one of the factors stipulated in the PDO status for Stilton when it was granted in the mid 1990's.

I was brought up on unpasteurised cow's milk, straight from the udder, and the difference is noticable. I still look forward to visting the farm, to return home with a carton of unadulterated full fat, raw creamy milk from my dad's own herd of Friesian-Holsteins. I firmly believe that pasteurisation does have a detrimental effect on the flavour and structure of milk and think this is well illustrated in the end result of this cheese. Surely many of its fabulous characteristics must be directly attributable to the use of unpasteurised milk.

It is undeniably reminiscent of traditional Stilton, yet Stichelton seems somehow to have an added dimension of flavor and texture. It has a rich, buttery mouth feel, almost moist in texture, with a full flavour that develops in the mouth and lingers afterwards. It is unmistakably creamy, in both colour and flavour, yet there is deep salty sharpness from the well distributed blue mould. This is a sensational cheese.

Stichelton - it's Stilton, only better.

Availability is limited but check out the website for a full list of suppliers; stockists include the Welbeck Farm Shop on the estate and Neal's Yard Dairy (it is also available via the Neal's Yard mail order service).

Sunday Fish 'n' Chip Supper - Murgatroyd's

2010-03-22T10:08:00.018Z

Fish and chips are a real British institution. In the same way the original Harry Ramsden's fish ‘n’ chip restaurant, just up the road from me in Guiseley, was an iconic Yorkshire institution. However, from my own experience its popularity these days seems to rely more on tradition than on the quality of the food. Perhaps my last visit (which was admittedly longer ago than I care to mention) was not typical, but I’m pretty sure that Harry Ramsden's will not benefit from becoming a global brand - the business already has 35 restaurants and take aways in the UK and under its new owner Ranjit Boparan, owner of Boparan Ventures, is now apparently looking east to India and China for further expansion!

Luckily a few miles down the road is Murgatroyd's, built on the site of the old Moorfield Mill in Yeadon which was owned in the 1870's by enterprising local legend "Billy Murg". Architecturally the huge building is rather ugly; in fact it resembles a tacky American diner, and is very... green. However, I'm not there to critique the building and, looks aside, this place does proclaim itself to be "Britain's Finest Fish and Chip Emporium". Apart from anything else, somewhere that calls itself an "Emporium" must be good and it is evident from the people queuing out of the doors at peak times that Billy Murg was not the only one to believe this. I for another would be hard pressed to disagree.

Given their limited repertoire, it’s amazing how many fish and chip shops mange to get their product so wrong; all too often fish and chips end up a soggy, greasy unapetising mess. However at Murg's everything is cooked impeccably. The fish and chips served here never disappoint; they are consistently brilliant. Pescetarians beware, but the fact that they are cooked in beef dripping (as all good Yorkshire fish and chips should be) only adds to the attraction for me - it definitley makes for the crispiest, tastiest fried food.

Most of the wow factor is down to the quality and size of the fish. A thick fillet of fresh skinless haddock is cooked to perfection in a crisp golden batter that sticks to the fish inside; crack through the batter and the fish flakes away in giant white translucent chunks.

The chips are served in a generous scoop and are always mouth jugglingly hot. Soft and fluffy inside yet crispy outside they are everything you could ask of a chip and more. This place (or plaice if I am being particularly corny) really benefits from its popularity; a busy fish and chip shop does mean a queue but it also guarantees great fish and chips as high turnover in double quick time means everything is freshly cooked and, very importantly for fish and chips, served piping hot. Battered fish sat under bright lights in a glass coffin for hours is a sad end indeed for such a scarce resource. The mushy peas are good here as well. Often they are a disappointing grey colour, thin, watery and tasteless but these are of a prefect consistency, very green and perfectly seasoned.

The only question is over the sustainability. There are no declarations of sustainable seafood or where the fish comes from, which is a real concern for me. I've never quite liked to ask, just in case I didn't like the answer and the dilema it then would pose, but I have emailed them an enquiry and await a response. Watch this space for an update.
*Update* Murgatroyd's tell me that they source their haddock from Iceland. Icelandic haddock stocks are better managed and more sustainable than in other waters (for example other parts of the Atlantic, the north-east Arctic, Faroes and the Irish Sea) but there was no reference to them sourcing from a specifically sustainable fishery.*Update*

Eat in the restaurant or grab a take away and scoff it on the benches outside, you won’t be disappointed; these really are some of the best fish and chips you will ever eat.

In the words of Billy Murg himself "If tha' doesn't like this lot, there's summat wrong wi' thee".

Murgatroyd's
Harrogate Road, Yeadon, Leeds, LS19 7BN

Harry’s Café de Wheels

2010-03-06T15:12:00.031Z

As this week has been officially designated as "British Pie Week" here is my contribution to the great pie debate - not without controversy as it could easily be argued that this isn't actually a British pie at all. However the fact is that the Aussies love their meat pies almost as much as the Brits and I feel that inclusion here can be justifed as, after all, it was the early Britsh settlers that brought the pie to Australia in the first place!

Harry’s Café de Wheels is a pie cart located in Woolloomooloo, a harbourside inner city suburb of Sydney, next to the finger wharfe. Established in 1938 it is as quintessential a Sydney icon as the Opera House and Harbour Bridge. Originally known simply as "Harry's", the addition of "Cafe de Wheels" came about because of a historic requirement from the city council that mobile food stalls had to move a minimum of 12 inches (30 cm) each day.

Harry’s became a magnet for visiting celebrities (Frank Sinatra, Sir Richard Branson, Russell Crowe, Kevin Costner, Pamela Anderson, Anthony Bourdain and Elton John have all eaten there) and the outsde is adorned with phots of its famous clientel. In 1974 Colonel Sanders paid a visit to Harry’s and reportedly ate three pies and peas while leaning on his walking stick in front of the caravan.

Harry's has become a unique part of the city’s nightlife and the place to get your post pub grub. A great way to soak up the excesses and it certainly beats a dodgy kebab.

We ate at Harry's Cafe de Wheels at lunchtime on New Years Eve, during our visit to Sydney in 2006/'07. We went for the famous "Tiger"(named after founder Harry "Tiger" Edwards); a meat pie topped with mashed potato, mushy peas and gravy.

The delicious deep flaky crust pie is filled with chunky beef in a rich peppery gravy, but it is the addition of smooth creamy mash, tasty peas and the puddle of extra gravy which make it difficult to top!

Well worth searching out if you ever find yourself in Sydney and in need of some quick, filling Aussie tucker!

For something more genuinely British try Sweeny & Todd Pie Shop in Reading, Berkshire. Something of a cross between an old style café and a quirky pub, it serves a good range of home-made pies to eat in or take away. The pies are fresh and really delicious with the added bonus of real ales and all at good value prices. A side order of tinned carrots is optional.

Harry's Cafe de Wheels

Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo NSW 2011, Australia

Sweeny & Todd

10 Castle Street, Reading RG1 7RD

Otley’s Own Super Market

2010-02-28T12:34:00.001Z

I make no bones about the fact that I harbor an intense dislike for supermarkets. There is nothing “super” about them as far as I am concerned (apart from their ability to dominate the retail food sector, devastating consumer choice and local economies). Lucky then that my home town of Otley boasts no less than 3 butchers, an artisan bakery, traditional grocers, mobile fishmonger and an independent wine/beer merchants, as well as a thrice weekly market.

However a shopping highlight is always the thriving Farmers’ Market. Held on the last Sunday of each month (between 9.00am and 1.00pm) when the cobbled Market Square, overlooked by the Victorian Jubilee Clock, hosts a vibrant and colourful group of tightly packed stalls, buzzing with punters.

It is recognised as one of the leading farmers markets in West Yorkshire and features more than forty stalls. It’s not just preserves and chutney’s on offer either; you can actually do your full weekly shop here, as well as stocking up on non-perishable goodies to sustain you through the month ahead. There are a wide variety of producers, the emphasis being on fresh local produce rather than exclusively organic goods, although there are a number of really good organic stalls. Almost all products are grown, reared, made or processed by the stallholder - there are no middle men. Also under the Farmers' market Certification scheme, run by FARMA, the produce on sale must originate within 50 miles and, where possible, 30 miles of Otley. Only a couple of specialist producers travel from outside Yorkshire.

One of the biggest queues is always at Langthorne's Buffalo Produce from Northallerton; their wares include Buffalo meat and cheese, but also Venison, Aberdeen Angus Beef, Wild Boar, Iron Age Pig, Lamb and Mutton. The buffalo burgers are amazing; buy them ready prepared to take home and cook, or they always have a batch sizzling on the grill to sell in a bun in case you missed breakfast. Or even if you didn’t as the smell and sight of the big juicy burgers is difficult to resist.

Other regular favorites include:
Kilnsey Park Trout Farm (Upper Wharfedale); fresh and smoked trout, pates & fish products
Swillington Organic Farm (Leeds); organic free range rare breed pork & chicken
Yockenthwaite Farm (Buckden, North Yorkshire); their hand baked granola is delicious
Swaledale Cheese Company (Swaledale); artisan cheeses made using traditional methods
J Stringer & Sons (Malton, North Yorkshire); Organic flour, bread mixes, porridge oats & potatoes, they also sell Yorkshire rapeseed oil
Dumouchel (Leeds); amazing fresh breads and patisserie
Quay Ingredients (Skipton); an extensive range of dried herbs & spices
Curry Cusine (Leeds); a range of custom made spice blends / mixes & pickles to produce authentic Indian meals at home – they have also been known to do live cookery demonstrations in the market
Braythorne Bees (Stainburn, North Yorkshire); different varieties of honey and honey-based products including candles and skin creams
The Organic Pantry (Tadcaster, North Yorkshire); seasonal organic veggies

Garth Cottage Nursery (Northallerton); Specialist growers of culinary herbs and herb-infused oils, salad dressings and vinegars, garlic and chillis. This month they were also selling rhubarb roots and forcing pots
Ledston Estate Game (Ripon); including venison, pheasant, rabbit, hare
Pattacakes; patisserie, puddings & pies
Autumn Harvest mushrooms

It annoys me if people expect the produce at a FM to be cheap – “after all they cut out the middle man”, they argue - or refer to the produce as expensive. These misconceptions are entirely due to society’s conditioning by the supermarkets. In reality food isn’t, and should not be, a cheap commodity to be flogged in BOGOFs. For me these people are missing the point, but incidentally if you do want cheap you can buy 3 lambs hearts for 75p. FMs provide an outlet for producers to by pass the supermarkets, sell direct to the public and get a fair price for their produce. In return the customer gets to build up a relationship with their producers, ask questions, buy the best fresh local produce and enjoy a more interactive and pleasant shopping experience.

I missed the market last month due to a particularly veracious hangover that kept me in bed until well after everyone had packed up and gone home, but I was reliably informed that there was a new stall in town. This month's visit confirmed it; The Real Lancashire Black Pudding Company has moved in. My life is now complete!

Farmers' market facts:
The concept was imported from the United States, where they have been in existence for 35 years.

The UK Farmers' market Certification scheme is run by FARMA (National Farmer's Retail & Markets Association) and is inspected by an independent body which assesses member markets to ensure they operate within their guidelines for what makes a farmers' market the real thing.

Farmers' markets in the UK started in the autumn of 1997, the first one being held in Bath. There are now more than 500, with over half of them being certified as operating under terms defined by FARMA.

http://www.farmersmarkets.net

Otley farmer's Market
Market Square
Last Sunday in the month, 9am – 1pm
FARMA Certified

Celebrating Britain’s Protected Products

2010-02-26T19:28:00.000Z

Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb has become the latest British product to achieve Protected Designated Origin (PDO) status from the European Commission this week.

PDO status safeguards regional foods by preventing producers from outside the designated geographical area from calling it by the protected name. Products are also extensively audited, ensuring that traditional production methods are maintained and consumers can be confident that they are buying an authentic product.

Britain, and in particular Yorkshire, has been slow to cotton on to the benefits of PDO but Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb now joins Swaledale Cheese as a uniquely Yorkshire product and becomes the 41st British product to be added to the list of legally protected names. It is in good company, joining the likes of West Country Farmhouse Cheddar, Stilton cheese, Cornish clotted cream, Jersey Royal potatoes, and Melton Mowbry pork pies.

The Wensleydale Creamery in Hawes have applied for PDO status for ‘Yorkshire Wensleydale’ and after a lengthy 3 year campaign have a decision pending for later this year. Bizarrely they claim that 56% of the Wensleydale cheese sold in the UK is not actually made in Wenslydale at all, but is made elsewhere in counties such as Lancashire, Cheshire & Shropshire. I’m sure Wallace and Gromit would have something to say about that, lad.

Anything that helps preserve the heritage, character and reputation of British foods and gives our producers an advantage over cheap imitations must be a positive move.
Surely when it comes down to it, the clue should be in the name?

A Lancastrian in Yorkshire; The Bull at Broughton

2010-02-21T11:54:00.007Z

After our morning spent discovering the secrets of the rhubarb triangle in Yorkshire last weekend I felt the need to redress the balance in favour of my Lancastrian roots. Now even I can't pretend that Skipton, gateway to the Yorkshire Dales and all that, is firmly entrenched in the Red Rose County. However, much to my delight it would seem that this part of Yorkshire has been invaded…. by a Lancastrian.

The Bull at Broughton, just outside Skipton, is the latest addition to Nigel Howarth & Craig Bancroft's Lancashire-based "Ribble Valley Inns" pub company. It joins The Three Fishes at Mitton, The Highwayman near Kirkby Lonsdale and The Clog & Billycock at Pleasington, nr Blackburn.
The RVI venture is part of the wider Northcote group of companies, which also includes the Michelin Starred Northcote Manor in Langho, and the group is co-owned by the two Lancastrians. Nigel Howarth is the chef behind the food and is now known nationally for his appearance and success on BBC 2's Great British Menu. His Lancashire hotpot was the winning main course in the last series and is probably the dish for which he is now best renowned and indeed typifies what he is all about - British classics perfectly executed with a modern twist.

Having visited both the Three Fishes and The Highwayman before, we knew roughly what to expect from The Bull; the same formula has been applied to all of the RVI pubs. I do not mean this in the typically naff generic chain pub sense, as each venue still manages to retain its own identity, but there is definitely a common premise that runs through them all. They are not billed as 'gastro pubs' but a more a modern day version of a ‘local’, serving great food and ale in a hospitable and relaxed environment. The philosophy behind each is to source the best ingredients from local artisan suppliers and to create a seasonal menu inspired by genuinely regional specialties. Add to that a good range of local ales and present it all immaculately in a building full of atmosphere & character. From the trademark spacious layouts, the extensive use of wood, bare flagged floors, solid wood furniture and real fires to the neutral modern décor and pictures of suppliers that adorn the walls and table mats, the pubs make the perfect informal and welcoming modern country inn.

The difference with the Bull is the location and therefore the emphases on Yorkshire dishes and produce. As usual the suppliers are all name-checked on a map on the back of the menu, which is littered with references to Yorkshire produce. There were 4 local cask ales on offer – including offerings from Copper Dragon & Dark Horse Breweries, both just down the road in Skipton, and Ilkley Best from the Ilkley Brewery.

I could happily eat anything from this menu but opted to start with William Hunter’s deep fried parsnip fritters with cumin dip - chunks of parsnip deep fried in a crisp batter, the insides had a lovely soft texture and the fragrant slightly sweet flavor of the parsnips was complimented perfectly by the warm hint of cumin in the creamy dip.

Dave went for the Gloucester old spot chipolatas (Cumberland, pork & black pudding), served with an English mustard relish, and assured me they were great sausages.

Both starters were served with cocktail sticks to pick with, almost like a bar snack or finger food and proved the perfect way to start a pub meal.

For mains it was a difficult choice, I was torn between one of the mutton dishes and the English rose veal escalope with capers, nut brown butter and Pearce’s organic fried egg. In the end we both went for mutton, a largely ignored and underrated meat in Britain these days it is nice to see it making an appearance on restaurant menus. I had the Herdwick mutton pudding with caper and parsley mash and black peas. It was a revelation, a delicate suet crust packed with tasty meat and kidney, the caper mash offsetting any greasiness from the rich mutton.

Dave’s mutton hotpot with picked red cabbage met with his expectations, which were exceedingly high given the man’s reputation for what is his signature dish.

Pudding was a toss up between Burnt English custard with stewed Tomlinson’s Yorkshire rhubarb and a Bramley apple pie with carnation milk and custard and a slice of Wensleydale cheese, made to serve 2. We went for the apple pie and were assured by the staff that we wouldn’t be disappointed - we weren’t. Not too sweet, the thin golden pastry crust was packed with tart apples and served with a lovely custard, speckled with vanilla. The carnation milk added a touch of sweet creamy nostalgia, I haven't had this since I was a child when I ate it with tinned peaches!

Service was the way it should be throughout - efficient, friendly and knowledgeable. At around £42 for a 3 course meal it was an absolute snip and I was well impressed with accomplished way everything was done here.

If I am honest, for me there is actually a slight "footballers' wives" kind of vibe that transcends all of the RVI pubs. It is characterised by the white Audi & BMW 4x4's with tinted windows that hog the car parks and the well-heeled clientele, typically wearing designer clothes, sunglasses and the wives carrying Gucci handbags. This combined with the elaborately worded menus and impeccable surroundings mean that maybe it is all just a bit too perfect. I guess if that is the only criticism I can level at them then I really am just being ridiculous. They are clearly doing something right here and it certainly won’t stop me going back for more!

There is an overriding sense of quality here that transcends the everyday British pub. It makes you wonder why more pubs cannot achieve the standards set by the RVI team but one thing is for sure, this is one Lancastrian that can hold his head up high over the border.

The Bull
Broughton, Skipton, BD23 3AE

http://www.thebullatbroughton.com/

A Magical Mystery Tour; the Rhubarb Triangle

2010-02-13T14:14:00.000Z

West Yorkshire has been the home of the ‘Rhubarb Triangle’ since the late 19th century. Despite the apparent lack of paranormal activity and notorious disappearances, the facts about this little known phenomenon are still often vague and shrouded in mystery. So in order to get to the bottom of the peculiar goings on in deepest Wakefield at this time of year we embarked on a mini rhubarb adventure.
It started with a phone call a week ahead to check availability of the tour, as advised on the website. I was told that they were very busy but we could indeed be squeezed in on Saturday 13th February at 10.30am. The booking was provisionally made and I posted a cheque at the soonest opportunity to confirm, we would then be emailed our tickets and directions to the location.
We were off to discover the secret world of the Rhubarb Triangle and to meet the ‘High Priestess of Rhubarb’!

The Rhubarb Triangle owes its name to the areas history of rhubarb growing, more specifically to its position at the epicentre of "forced" rhubarb production. The first misnomer that needs to be cleared up is its location. The Rhubarb Triangle is often described as being the triangular area between the cities of Leeds, Wakefield and Bradford (the green triangle on the map). Other sources give the points of the triangle as Leeds, Morley and Wakefield (the blue triangle on the map). However both of these claims are rhubarb (pardon the obvious pun) as the largest area of rhubarb cultivation actually falls outside both of these triangles. It more accurately covers the triangular 9-square-mile area of land formed between Morley, Wakefield and Rothwell (the red triangle on the map).

Map courtesy of Yorkshire Gardener Sue from Green Lane Allotments

In fact much of the rhubarb these days is grown around the village of Carlton and this is where we were heading.

On arrival at Oldroyd's Farm we were met by Janet Oldroyd Hulme (AKA the ‘High Priestess of Rhubarb’). The tour started with Tea / Coffee and Biscuits and then we were taken back in time to 2700BC to trace rhubarb’s ancient history. Rhubarb (actually a vegetable, not a fruit) is originally native of Siberia and since early times has been highly prized for its medicinal properties. In fact, back to the modern day and only this week it was announced that this super food has now been linked with the prevention and possible treatment of cancer.

Although not native to the UK Rhubarb was found to flourish in Yorkshire’s cold, damp soils.
The forcing process was discovered by chance in the early 19th Century, but it wasn't until 1877 that Yorkshire became the first place in the world to build special sheds to grow it in. In its heyday there were more than two hundred growers in the Rhubarb Triangle and it produced 90% of the world's winter rhubarb. It was grown, picked and whisked away to London via the rail network on the "Rhubarb Express", to be sold at Covent Garden and Spitalfields markets and on into Europe. I wondered if the trains left from Platform nine and three quarters but didn't dare to ask.
After World War II the industry sadly went into decline and producers went bankrupt or were forced to sell up as other, more exotic fruit became widely available and more popular. Now there are just a handful of growers left in the area; 12 to be precise. Leading the renaissance is the Oldroyd family, now into its fifth generation of dedicated rhubarb growers. Janet leaves you with no doubt as to her passion for this crimson stalk.

We were then introduced to the dark art of rhubarb forcing! Each winter rhubarb crowns (established root systems) are transferred indoors into dark, heated nursery sheds to be "forced". Anything referred to as being "forced" would generally have bad connotations, particularly in relation to food. In the case of rhubarb though, it describes the process of growing the plants at an accelerated rate in warm, dimly lit conditions a process that actually results in a superior product. The forced stalks are tender, sweet, and a distinctive bright pink in colour. Known as "Champagne Rhubarb", it is a seasonal delicacy and can fetch much higher prices than its more fibrous and lip-puckeringly sour outdoor equivalent that has given rhubarb such a bad reputation.
Once inside the secret word of the low, dark forcing sheds the ambiance is eerie, almost other worldly. With the giant heaters turned off, in the silence you can actually hear the rhubarb growing; it is a distinctive "pop" as the buds of new stalks burst open. The grotto-like shed runs as far as the eye can see, and the rhubarb emerges in the flickering candlelight. Janet describes it as "almost like a religious experience" and without doubt it is strangely atmospheric, even magical.

The Yorkshire rhubarb growers are currently waiting on a decision from Brussels on an application for Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status for their crop, to allow them to officially name their product "traditionally grown Yorkshire rhubarb" and prevent cheap imitations from impostors, such as the Dutch. The decision is due in the next few days and hopefully forced Yorkshire rhubarb will then join the elite list of protected regional foods and put the Rhubarb Triangle firmly on the map.

E.Oldroyd & Sons Ltd
Carlton Village, LS26 0ST
Tours run from January to March.

Wakefield Food, Drink and Rhubarb Festival runs from 26th to 27th February 2010.

The best thing since sliced bread: Bondgate Bakery, Otley

2010-01-09T17:38:00.000Z

Excuse the cliché but Bondgate Bakery in Otley really is the best thing since sliced bread. I'm not sure who coined that particular phrase but, if I could, I would ask them to explain exactly what is so good about sliced bread. I guess it's that much touted word "convenience", but today's plastic wrapped, industrially produced white sliced loaf bears little resemblance to its artisan hand made equivalent. Anyway what is so difficult about slicing a doorstep sized wedge off a freshly baked crusty loaf, before slathering it in butter and devouring it? If this is considered a hardship then we should seriously count our blessings!

Since 1961 much of the bread produced in the UK has been made using the Chorleywood Bread Process. This speeded up, commercialised procedure involves the addition of a whole host of ingredients that, in my opinion, have no place in a loaf of bread: emulsifiers (usually E471 or E472e), improvers, ascorbic acid (or E300), vinegar added as a preservative and relatively large amounts of unhealthy fats and salt.
If the resultant tasteless, slimy, sliced white loaf represents all that is bad about food in Britain today then Bondgate Bakery is going some way to redress the balance towards all that is wholesomely good.

Local bakers in Otley since 1984 all of their products are (& have been since the beginning) produced using free-range eggs. There are no nasties found in their bread; they do not use any artificial additives, preservatives, trans-fatty acids or hydrogenated fats. They pride themselves on the quality and integrity of their baking and all of their bakery products are hand crafted on the premises using traditional methods.

Winners of BBC Radio 4's Food and Farming Awards for Best Local Food Retailer in 2004, they also recently featured in Jamie Oliver's food magazine, so it is great to see this local producer getting some national recognition.

The previously cramped shop has recently been expanded and with more than 30 different types of bread to choose from the new behind the counter displays are visually stunning. From a large white loaf to ciabbata, sour dough, rye bread, French sticks, oat bread, seed breads,oven bottom muffins, bread cakes, rolls, multigrain, fruit loaves... the choice is bewildering.

The malt house loaf is my favourite; made with wholemeal flour with added flaked malted grains for a crunchy texture, it makes for almightily tasty bread.

There is an equally impressive range of pastries and cakes including pain au chocolate, croissants and cinnamon Danish swirls, iced buns, brownies, flapjacks, parkin, Yorkshire curd tart, oat and muesli bars, slices of fruity oat crumble, frangipan and bread pudding.
They do a nice line in savouries, pizzas and flans too and also have a number of options for gluten and wheat free products, sugar free and vegan options.

For me Bondgate Bakery restores meaning to life itself, but also to the prose of English poet, Robert Browning:

“If thou tastest a crust of bread, thou tastest all the stars and all the heavens.”

Robert Browning (1812-1889).

Try it, hopefully you'll understand what he means.

Bondgate Bakery
30 Bondgate, Otley, LS21 1AD

Piazza by Anthony

2009-12-29T13:50:00.000Z

In order to make a Christmas shopping trip to Leeds a little more palatable we decided to incorporate lunch and settled on Piazza by Anthony. The "Anthony" in the name refers to Anthony Flinn, probably best known for appearing in the BBC TV series "Great British Menu". He also previously worked at the cutting edge El Bulli in Spain but returned to Leeds in 1994 to launch his own innovative restaurant, Anthony's, for which he has received widespread acclaim but is still awaiting his first Michelin star.

The exciting Piazza by Anthony is the latest addition to his growing Leeds empire and the first thing that strikes you (apart from the slightly pretentious name) is its location. Situated on the vast ground floor of Leeds' grand Victorian Corn Exchange, a £1.5m refurbishment has restored the historic grade I-listed building and left it looking amazing.

The entire central expanse is occupied by Piazza and contains a café, lounge bar and private dining rooms, with a 125-seat brasserie at its centre. There is also a Bakery, Patisserie and Chocolate Shop, complete with open "theatre" kitchens where you can watch breads, pastries, cakes and confectionery being prepared throughout the day. The Cheese and Ham shop contains a special temperature and humidity controlled cheese room well stocked with a wide range of artisan cheeses, the shop also features a prosciutto slicer for fresh perfectly sliced charcuterie. These shops also supply his other establishments with their wares: the prestigious Anthony's Restaurant, Anthony's at Flannels and Anthony's Patisserie in the Victorian Quarter shopping arcade.

The more straight forward Piazza brasserie opens throughout the day serving brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. Since its opening last November it has clearly established a following; even on a chilly Tuesday lunchtime the restaurant was busy with most of the tables being occupied. There was a large business function in but also couples and relaxed groups of families and friends having a pre-Christmas get together. However over a year since opening its doors most of the retail shops in the Corn Exchange are sadly still empty. Maybe the developer's idea of the building being devoted to a food emporium was a little ambitious from the outset and it has probably suffered at the hands of the recession too, which is a shame. As a result of the large otherwise empty building, the brasserie can feel a little lacking in intimacy and atmosphere. Despite its buzz, flagstone floor and low-lit brick walls it still feels a bit cold (both literally and in terms of ambiance). Look up though and the Corn Exchange's mighty Victorian domed glass ceiling high above is stunning.

The extensive menu is modern British but with a continental vibe, including sections for salads, pasta and risotto which you can order as a starter or a main, as well as a more traditional mains sections featuring grilled and roast meats and fish. Although reasonably priced the dishes themselves are definitely of a standard above the norm for brasserie cooking, both in terms of presentation and execution. However I'm not quite sure it can be exactly defined as a fine dining experience either and Piazza seems to fall somewhere between the two.
The cauliflower soup that Dave ordered was velvety and apparently delicious but we both agreed that the portion was meagre, at best, and made worse by the ridiculously large bowl it was served in which was all rim and no substance. I chose a starter of scampi from the "Bar nibbles / snacks" section of the menu and they were perfect. The juicy langoustines had steamed in the crisp bread crumbed coating and were totally delicious dipped in the tartar sauce.
Dave's braised lamb shank was a decent size and came with smooth creamy mash and a dark glossy lentil jus, the meat was falling off the bone. The side order of buttered sugar snap peas with bacon was nicely cooked and complimented the dish well.

I chose the slow braised beef risotto topped with horseradish mousse; the risotto was well seasoned and had a deep flavor but the mousse could definitely have taken an extra kick of horseradish. The risotto had a perfect consistency but was cooked slightly more than usual. However the softer texture complemented the beef, anything more al dente may have jarred with the melting texture of the slow cooked meat.

We still had room for desert and ordered jam roly poly with custard and black forest gateaux with Cherry Ripple Ice Cream; it is great to see two much maligned dishes making an appearance and both were solidly executed.

Service was efficient throughout, although some of the waiting staff looked like they could do with what my mum would term "a good scrub".

Overall Piazza is impressive; it is a great concept and an ambitious project befitting of the spectacular building. Furthermore it is, on the whole, doing enough to stand up to the grandeur of its location. To consistently deliver food of this quality at a reasonable price in such a spectacular venue is undoubtedly an achievement. I just hope that the Corn Exchange really can become the buzzing shopping emporium it was intended to be because as it is staring up at the empty shops detracts from what could be an amazing foodie experience.

Piazza by Anthony
The Corn Exchange, Leeds

Damnson Good Gin!

2009-12-14T22:33:00.000Z

I’ve been looking forward to this moment since we were given a load of ripe damsons at the end of summer and, along with a couple of batches of jam, I started some Damson Gin.

To make approx 1 litre of Damson Gin:

1 lb (450g) Damsons
0.75 Litres Gin
5 oz (140g) Sugar (Granulated or Castor)

Rinse the damsons and get rid of any bruised or decaying fruit. Prick the damsons with a fork and place into a 1 litre receptacle - a large wide necked Kilner or Le Parfait jar is perfect.
Pitch in the sugar and then add the gin until the fruit is covered and the jar is full to the brim.
Give the jar a good shake and repeat this for the first week or so until the sugar is properly dissolved.

I doubled the quantities given above and the 2 resulting jars were stored away in a cool dark place to do their thing.

This damson gin will hopefully not result in a thick syrupy ultra-sweet tipple but it can be sampled after a couple of months or so and, if necessary, topped up with sugar. For my taste I deemed that no extra sugar was required.

Anyway, my damsons have now been steeping in the gin for just over 3 months and have hopefully done their job imparting a delicious fruity tartness to the spirit. The gin has certainly taken on a lovely deep plum colour.

So today’s job was to filter the gin through some muslin and re-bottle the strained liquor.

Waste not, want not and so the macerated fruit is now in the fridge waiting to be made into a delicious (adults only) boozy damson crumble.

Damsons are ripe in early September, a happy coincidence then that the liqueur is now bottled and ready for drinking as a Christmas treat! I’m thinking Damson Gin Fizz on Christmas morning; 1 part Damson Gin / 3 parts English Sparking Wine.

It would be rude not to. Although past experience of this particular snifter suggests that might not be the most sensible idea, but then it is Christmas and I can always sleep it off after lunch!

Fuji Hiro

2009-12-08T18:50:00.001Z

On first impressions you could be forgiven for dismissing Fuji Hiro. Tucked away in an unfashionable area of Leeds on the outside of the Merrion Centre, from the exterior the place is rather unassuming and even once inside the decor is probably best described as basic; more dated retro canteen than sophisticated Japanese funk. However, if you can look past the lino and formica topped tables then you are in for a treat. If you can't then you are probably better off sticking to the generic formula provided by the trendy noodle chain places, such as Wagamama, that seem to be springing up all over, but you will be missing out.

Fuji Hiro (meaning 'Happy Sun') is an unpretentious family run Japanese noodle bar and it is all about the food. It may not be staffed by multi-national students in logo-ed T- shirts and armed with hand held computers, but service is efficient and always with a smile. The menu itself is fairly limited, based around Ramen (noodle soup), fried rice and noodle dishes. However the food is delicious; served quickly in generous helpings and freshly cooked to order without MSG or additives.

The concept of a traditional meal with a starter followed a main course isn't really understood in Japanese cuisine, but there are a number of "side dishes" that you can order along with your main dish and the food is delivered out to your table as and when the dishes are ready. This means that food isn’t always served together, but this is only an issue if you let western preconceptions take over.

As is customary on our frequent early Sunday evening visits, we ordered 3 of the side dishes between 2 of us (we were particularly hungry). The Ebi Katsu arrived first; delectable deep-fried butterflied king prawns in crisp panko breadcrumbs, served with a spicy chilli sauce and garnished with lime. Gyozas next, these are popular Japanese dumplings comprising of a thin dough filled (in this case with pork) and sealed into a crescent shape then part steamed, part pan fried so that the bottoms are brown and slightly crunchy, they come with a soy dipping sauce. A word of warning, if you are too greedy and try to eat the gyoza whole whilst they are still steaming hot you get a burst of scalding juice in your mouth which will run down your chin and burn your lips. I know this but it still happens every time! Finally Yakitori, the traditional Japanese favourite – a classic dish of skewered chicken, basted in a sweet soy-based sauce and grilled over a high heat so it is slightly charred and sticky.

We accompanied this with mains of Spicy Yaki Soba and an enormous bowl of Chilli Beef Ramen, washed down with cold Asahi beer. The Spicy Yaki Soba consists of pan-fried buckwheat noodles with chicken, prawns and vegetables in spicy curry oil; this is Dave's favourite dish on the menu and again he couldn’t resist. I usually go for the Yaki Udon (satisfyingly thick and worm-like udon noodles fried with shitake mushrooms, prawns, chicken, vegetables and sliced Japanese fishcake, in curry oil) but this time fancied a ramen soup; a light broth packed with noodles, bean sprouts, thinly sliced veggies and fragrant coriander, topped with strips of beef and chilli sauce. You can feel it doing you good as you eat it.

The bill came to £34. Some folks may not "get" Fuji Hiro but the generous helpings and reasonably priced fresh & tasty dishes mean that it is one of those little haunts that I want to return to time and again for a quick fix of no frills Japanese comfort food.

Fuji Hiro
45 Wade Lane, Leeds, LS2 8NJ

Lick your chops & fill your belly!

2009-12-05T14:13:00.000Z

There was no food in the house, well nothing worthy of my attention or the serious hangovers we were both nursing. A bowl of granola just doesn’t cut the mustard at times like that. It’s like getting a polite handshake when you crave a big hug. So, as we were heading into Leeds anyway, we decided to make the most of the opportunity and have a late Saturday lunch at Sam's Chop House.

Sam's is a bit of a Manchester institution, apparently, having been established there in 1872; we've been to the one in Leeds a couple of times now since it opened and really enjoyed it, so it is nice to see that they seem to be cementing their position over the Pennines as well. Located in the grade-II listed former Pearl Assurance building in the city centre financial district, it has been sympathetically renovated with a Victorian inspired vibe, keeping lots of the original features; mouldings, panelling, tiles and high ceilings. The atmosphere is comfortable and relaxed, with people sitting around reading newspapers or chatting over a drink and a convivial lunch.

They have a good selection of bottled & draught beers and cask ales, including their own brew Sam's Special, and an award-winning wine list. Given our fragile states though we choose not to indulge and stuck with fresh juice.

The menu features hearty traditional British grub made from seasonal ingredients, all served in generous portions; classics such as fish 'n' chips, belly pork, fish pie, corned beef hash and various chops & steaks. I can overlook the fact that there was asparagus on the menu in November, for what was to follow.

Having had nothing to eat all day (it was now approaching 3pm) we were starving and both wanted a starter; I had the Brown Onion Soup and Dave went for the Crispy Corned Beef Hash Cakes, made with their home-corned brisket and topped with a perfect poached egg and brown sauce dressing. Both were absolutely delicious, but for us it was really all about the main event.
I had known what I wanted even before I walked through the door and despite Dave's usual aversion for ordering the same thing as me, neither of us could resist and we both ordered the home-made Steak & Kidney Pudding. They warn you it’s substantial and it doesn't disappoint. The suet crust is actually quite thin and delicate but once you break through it’s packed solid with rich, melting meat and chunks of lamb's kidney. It is served with an individual jug of tasty gravy and some of the best chips I have ever eaten – thick and fluffy inside but amazingly crunchy on the outside. The crushed marjoram scented peas were a good accompaniment too. Less than half way through I was already regretting the delicious soup and unfortunately my eyes proved to be bigger than my, not insignificant, belly; I just couldn't finish mine. Dave struggled manfully to polish his off and did manage it but neither of us could squeeze in a desert. We left, feeling better and knowing that we had been right to forsake the immediate gratification offered by the granola and hold out for the food equivalent of a full on and immensly satisfying love-in.

Sam's Chop House
8 South Parade, Leeds, LS1 5QX

Long live "Les Rosbifs"!

2009-11-26T22:50:00.000Z

British food is as derided as our wet weather.
“One cannot trust people whose cuisine is so bad", French President Jacques Chirac joked at a meeting with the German and Russian leaders back in 2005. Well if we are talking about trust here, at least England qualified for the world cup finals next year fair and square!

But this poses the question, is British food really that bad? William Somerset Maugham evidently thought so when he famously said “The only way to eat well in England is to have breakfast three times a day.” Often perceived as being insipid, British food has taken a battering over the years; overcooked meat and soggy vegetables served with the ubiquitous brown gravy, school dinners, spam, stodgy puddings with lumpy custard and processed cheese have done nothing to improve this image.

However, I beg to differ with the disparaging judgements. Whilst I cannot dispute that breakfast in Britain is indeed a thing of immense greatness, opinions such as those of Somerset Maugham and the entire French population do a huge disservice to our culinary heritage and the progress we have made over recent years.

I cannot pretend that it is not possible to eat bad food in Britain. It used to be true that to go for meal in a pub or restaurant was a random experience – think bad experiences at the "Bernie Inn" chain type pubs from the 70's and 80's. Maybe this is even still the case to some extent, but this can also be said of anywhere else in the world. There is good and bad to be had everywhere.

In reality British cooking has undergone a remarkable reinvention in recent years. The restaurant scene is unrecognisable from two decades ago, with the emergence of chefs such as Mark Hix, Richard Corrigan, Nigel Haworth and Paul Heathcote championing regional cuisine and re-establishing traditional British dishes on their menus. Writers and TV personalities such as Rick Stein, Valentine Warner and Hugh Fearnley- Whittingstall (all of whom I harbour something of a healthy pre-occupation for, but that's another story) have also brought British food to pre-eminence, focusing on traditional foods and local produce.

The availability of quality ingredients in Britain has undergone a similar revolution. British food is by no means limited to mass-produced goods such as Heinz baked beans, OXO, HP sauce, Marmite and Bird's custard. Our shops, markets, and farmers markets in particular, often offer outstanding produce and there are a large number of artisan producers now taking pride in what they make.
This poster was issued by OXO circa 1941 and whilst I have no doubt that this iconic British product did indeed have everything to do with victory in The Battle of Britian, these days it's actually more about high quality cheeses, fresh fruit and vegatables, meat, game, fish and seafood to rival any in the world.

British cuisine has prevailed over the curse of industrialisation, survived the war and rationing and the subsequent assault by Elizabeth David and her obsession with all things Mediterranean in the 1950s and 60s. It no longer deserves the bad press; on the contrary, British food has evolved beyond the days when French Presidents could scoff and smirk. British food culture is thriving and there is so much that we can be justifiably proud of. Some of the best food I have ever eaten has been in these fair isles, there is so much to relish and explore - this blog is about celebrating that.

And funnily enough, it is probably the British weather that we have to thank for it all. Chirac can keep his Mediterranean climate, the olives, tomatoes and aubergines. I’ll take a bit of rain; give me the lush English countryside and a comforting Lancashire hotpot to warm me up any day!